The Camino Francés

The Puerto de Ibañeta (1,057 m) is where the two routes from Saint Jean Pied de Port converge — the Napoleon Route descending from the Collado de Lepoeder through beech forest, and the Valcarlos Route climbing steeply from Gañecoleta.

The modern Ermita de San Salvador marks the site of an older monastery that once received pilgrims at this pass. A stone monument to Roland stands nearby, commemorating the battle of 778. The views south toward the valley of Roncesvalles are a welcome sight after either crossing.

This pass has been an important crossing point since Roman times and was one of the principal routes into the Iberian peninsula. The chapel is usually open and makes for a quiet moment before the final descent.

Roncesvalles (Orreaga in Basque) is where the Camino Francés truly begins for many pilgrims. Those who walked from Saint Jean arrive exhausted and triumphant; those starting here begin fresh-legged and wide-eyed. You can tell them apart by the length of their stride.

The village is tiny — essentially the Collegiate church complex, the albergue, the Posada hotel, and a handful of other buildings along a single road. Everything revolves around the Colegiata de Santa María, a 13th-century Gothic church where the pilgrim mass and blessing take place each evening. Don't miss it.

The albergue is one of the largest on the Francés with nearly 200 beds in a renovated medieval hospital. Dinner tickets are sold at reception; the communal dining room is a chaotic, multilingual affair and a great introduction to Camino social life. The Posada restaurant is the other dining option — more refined, with a solid menu del día.

It doesn't take long to see everything here, and almost every building has historical or artistic value. The Silo de Carlomagno (the oldest structure), the chapter house with its Romanesque capitals, and the 14th-century cloister are all worth a wander.

A stone pilgrim cross on the roadside between Roncesvalles and Burguete, set among the beech trees. A traditional spot to pause, though there's nothing here beyond the cross itself and the quiet forest.

Burguete (Auritz in Basque) sits at 890 m in a broad valley, with wide streets lined by traditional Navarrese houses — whitewashed stone with dark timber balconies. The town is little changed since Ernest Hemingway stayed here in 1924 on a fishing trip that would make its way into The Sun Also Rises.

The Hotel Burguete (formerly Hotel Juandeaburre) where Hemingway lodged still operates, though it's been modernized. Several bars and restaurants serve the town, and the trout from these rivers still ends up on dinner tables. There's a small grocery shop for supplies.

The architecture here is distinctly Pyrenean — look for the massive stone houses with their wide eaves, designed to shed heavy snow. The parish church of San Nicolás de Bari anchors the village.

Espinal (Aurizberri in Basque) is a compact village in the valley of the Erro river, with a couple of bars, a small albergue, and a welcoming atmosphere. Between here and Pamplona you'll notice villages perched above the valley floor — a pattern driven by the need to keep fertile riverside farmland available for crops while building homes on higher, more defensible ground.

The parish church retains some Romanesque elements. The village is a good stopping point if Roncesvalles was full or if you want a shorter first day.

A gentle pass between Espinal and Bizkarreta. The climb is modest and the terrain wooded. No services, but a pleasant stretch of walking through mixed forest.

Bizkarreta-Gerendiáin is the next valley village, with a few bars including El Dragón Peregrino which has vegetarian and vegan options — a rarity this early on the Francés. A small supermarket sits at the far end of town.

The village's stone houses cluster around the road, and the parish church of San Pedro has a Romanesque doorway worth a glance. A functional stop rather than a destination, but the food options make it a reasonable place to pause.

Lintzoain is a tiny hamlet tucked into the valley. The bar has highly irregular hours and isn't generally open to the public, so don't count on refreshments here. A few stone houses, a small Romanesque church, and not much else — but it's a peaceful spot.

The Alto de Erro (801 m) is a forested pass with a food truck that provides seasonal service to pilgrims — drinks, snacks, and a colorful stamp for your credencial. On busy days it's a social gathering point; on quiet days it might not be here at all.

From here it's a steep descent to Zubiri. The path has been paved in recent years, making it less slippery than it once was, but the steepness remains. Watch your knees.

Zubiri is the first town of any real size after the Pyrenees crossing, sitting in the valley of the Arga river. It's a working town rather than a tourist one — a Magnesitas factory dominates the approach — but it has the services you need after the mountains.

Two restaurants serve pilgrim menus on opposite ends of town. A well-stocked shop near the church has everything to assemble your own meal. Several albergues operate here; on extremely busy days the municipal facilities sometimes set up overflow capacity.

The town makes a practical stopping point if you started in Roncesvalles and want a manageable first (or second) day. It's about 22 km from Roncesvalles, or 6 km short of Larrasoaña.

You can take the road or the trail out of Zubiri. The trail passes a magnesium processing plant — you'll smell it before you see it — and can get muddy in wet weather. Both options follow the Arga valley downstream, and the walking is mostly flat with gentle ups and downs through the riverside woodland.

Ilarratz is a small hamlet along the Arga. About 400 m past the village on the right-hand side of the road stands the Abadía de Ilarratz, a medieval building rumored to have been a fort before its conversion to a church. The structure still has a fortress-like quality, with thick walls and small windows.

An albergue operates here in an old stone house. A couple of bars along the road serve pilgrims. This stretch of the Arga valley is pretty — river, forest, stone villages — and sets the tone for the day's walking.

A tiny hamlet on the road between Ilarratz and Larrasoaña. A handful of stone houses and not much else. The walking continues along the Arga valley.

Going into Larrasoaña isn't strictly necessary unless you're staying at the albergue or stopping for food. The camino proper runs along the opposite bank. If you've been following the road from Zubiri, you can cross the bridge into town or stay on the trail without descending.

If you do go in, the albergue is at the far end of the village. Retrace your steps to the bridge to rejoin the camino heading toward Pamplona.

Larrasoaña is a historic pilgrim village strung along a single main street above the Arga. It was once an important stop on the medieval Camino, with multiple pilgrim hospitals. Today it's a small, quiet place with an albergue, a couple of basic bars, and a grocery with limited hours and stock.

The village has the characteristic Navarrese stone architecture, and the medieval bridge — Puente de los Bandidos — tells its own story. It was a notorious spot for bandits who preyed on pilgrims crossing the river. The name stuck.

Larrasoaña makes a reasonable alternative to Zubiri if you're looking for a shorter or longer first day from Roncesvalles. It's quieter and has more historical character, though fewer services.

A small Basque hamlet on the hillside above the Arga. Notable mainly for a large rural hotel. The camino leaves the paved road here for a dirt track, which makes for more pleasant walking through the riverside landscape.

Zuriain is little more than a scattering of houses along the Arga, but the Parada de Zuriain bar-restaurant has made it a popular breakfast stop. Good food, artisan tortillas, and a deck overlooking the garden and river make it worth a pause. You can easily lose an hour here watching the water.

A small village on the road where the camino briefly touches asphalt. No services, but the medieval bridge over the Arga is a fine example of the river crossings that punctuate this valley. The walking continues flat and easy toward Zabaldika.

Zabaldika sits on a hill above the river, with the Romanesque Iglesia de San Esteban as its centerpiece. The church has a beautiful semicircular apse and a carved doorway — worth a stop if it's open.

The village has had its share of confusing waymarking, the result of local politics redirecting arrows away from the traditional route past the church. Follow the arrows as they are, but if you can, take the path that passes the church rather than bypassing it.

A small parish albergue operates near the church, offering a donativo bed and a communal dinner. It's a simple, hospitable setup that many pilgrims remember fondly.

At the picnic area by the road you have a choice. The main camino continues straight ahead, climbing briefly before descending toward Trinidad de Arre and the urban approach to Pamplona.

Alternatively, you can follow the river downstream on a flat path to Huarte and Villava, then walk into Pamplona along the river. This variant avoids some road walking and is pleasant, though slightly longer. Both routes converge at Trinidad de Arre.

The two buildings of note here are the Palacio de los Señores (Palace of the Lords) and the Iglesia de Santa Marina. Neither is open to the public, but they make a handsome pair of medieval stone structures. There's enough space for a rest or a picnic in the shade before tackling the suburbs of Pamplona.

Crossing the medieval bridge over the Río Ulzama, you arrive at the Basílica de la Trinidad de Arre, which also operates as a pilgrim albergue run by the Padres Maristas. It's a popular stop with a pleasant garden and a communal atmosphere.

This is where the camino from Bayonne (the Route des Ports de Cize) joins the main Francés. From here the walk into Pamplona is mostly urban — through Villava, Burlada, and across the Puente de la Magdalena into the old city. It's about 5 km of suburb.

Villava is the first of the Pamplona suburbs you'll walk through after Trinidad de Arre. It's a residential town that has grown into the Pamplona sprawl. All services are available — supermarkets, pharmacies, bars — but most pilgrims press on to Pamplona itself. The cyclist Miguel Induráin, five-time Tour de France winner, was born here.

The border between Burlada and Pamplona is the Río Arga, crossed by the Puente de la Magdalena. Since Trinidad de Arre the terrain has been flat suburban road. From the bridge you get your first sight of Pamplona's old walls and the beginning of the old city. All services available in Burlada, though most pilgrims walk straight through.

The Puente de la Magdalena is a beautiful 14th-century bridge over the Arga, restored in the 1960s. It marks the formal entrance to Pamplona's old city, and the point where the camino passes through the medieval walls via the Portal de Francia.

The albergue Casa Paderborn sits along the river — turn left after crossing the bridge if you plan to stay there. It's a well-run German-founded albergue with a good reputation.

Pamplona (Iruña in Basque) is the first major city on the Francés and the capital of Navarra. It's a beautiful, walkable city with a well-preserved old quarter, excellent food, and a lively atmosphere year-round — not just during the San Fermín festival.

The old city is compact. The Plaza del Castillo is the heart of it, ringed by cafés with outdoor seating. From here the narrow streets radiate outward, packed with pintxos bars that rival anything in San Sebastián. Calle Estafeta — the famous bull-running street — is worth walking even without the bulls. The cathedral of Santa María la Real is a Gothic masterpiece with a cloister considered one of the finest in Spain.

The city walls and the Ciudadela (the star-shaped fortress turned public park) are perfect for an afternoon stroll. The parks along the Arga river offer green space and running paths.

For services, Pamplona has everything: hospitals, pharmacies, outdoor gear shops (useful for replacing anything that broke in the Pyrenees), banks, and a major bus and train station. The Pilgrim Office near the cathedral issues credenciales and stamps.

Multiple albergues operate in the old city. The municipal albergue Jesús y María is centrally located. Several private albergues and hostels offer more comfort. Hotels range from budget to luxury. Book ahead during San Fermín (July 6-14) when the city is impossibly full and prices triple.

Cizur Menor has been swallowed by Pamplona's suburban expansion, but it retains a village identity of its own. The albergue is run by the Knights of Malta — the modern descendants of the Hospitallers who cared for pilgrims along this stretch in the Middle Ages. It's a good operation with a communal dinner and a sense of ceremony that connects you to something older than the suburban sprawl outside.

The Iglesia de San Miguel Arcangel, a late 12th-century Romanesque church, sits at the center of the village. The doorway has a tympanum carved with the chi-rho monogram of Christ. The church was part of a monastery complex belonging to the Hospitallers, and though the monastery is long gone, the church stands solid.

For food, the Asador El Tremendo does a solid pilgrim menu. The nearest full supermarket is in Cizur Mayor, a short walk west, though a small shop in town covers basics. There's a fountain for refilling water bottles near the albergue.

Zariquiegui is the last village before the climb to the Alto del Perdon, about 11 km from Pamplona. A small cluster of stone houses along a single street, with a bar that opens seasonally and a fountain for water. Fill up here — there's nothing between Zariquiegui and Uterga on the far side of the pass.

The Iglesia de San Andres is the village's landmark, a 13th-century church in late Romanesque style with a recessed doorway and capitals decorated with plant motifs. The tympanum carries a chi-rho symbol. If you've seen the movie The Way, you may recognize the facade — it was used as a location in the film.

From here the climb gets more serious, gaining about 300 m over 3 km to the pass. It's not the hardest climb on the Frances by any measure, but on a hot day with a fresh pack from Pamplona it can feel like it.

The Alto del Perdon (756 m) is crowned by a line of wind turbines and a famous iron sculpture by the Navarrese artist Vicente Galbete, installed in 1996. It shows a procession of pilgrims through the ages — medieval walkers, merchants on horseback, a solitary figure representing the centuries of decline, and modern pilgrims at the rear. The inscription reads: "Donde se cruza el camino del viento con el de las estrellas" — where the path of the wind crosses that of the stars.

On a clear day the views from the summit are outstanding: the Pyrenees behind you to the east, the route ahead dropping into the valley toward Puente la Reina, and nearly 40 wind turbines sharing the ridgeline. This is the highest point for the next 170 km.

The descent on the far side deserves respect. The path drops steeply on loose, rocky ground that becomes slippery when wet. The worst section is the first kilometer — more rocky than steep, but it demands careful footing. Take your time, especially if it's been raining. Trekking poles earn their weight here. The surface has been improved in recent years but it still punishes rushed footwork.

Uterga is a small village of about 170 people at the base of the Sierra del Perdon's western slope, about 19 km from Pamplona. After the rocky descent from the pass, it feels like a reward. A couple of bars serve food — the Gastrobar Camino del Perdon has earned a good reputation among pilgrims — and a small shop covers basics.

The village has attractive stone architecture and a quiet atmosphere. The Iglesia de la Asuncion anchors the old center. Most pilgrims pass through quickly, but it's a pleasant spot for a coffee and a rest before the flat walk to Murozabal. There's a fountain with fresh water in the village.

Murozabal is a small farming village of about 250 people in the Valdizarbe valley, notable mainly as the access point for the Church of Eunate. A bar on the main road provides basic refreshment. The village has a few examples of the traditional Navarrese stone houses with their carved escutcheons, and the Iglesia de San Esteban — a Gothic church with a three-arched portico — sits at the center.

If you're planning to visit Eunate, the detour begins here. It's about 1.5 km south off the camino. You can rejoin the main route by continuing from Eunate directly to Obanos, making it a loop rather than an out-and-back. The detour adds perhaps 2 km total to the day, and it's flat walking on farm tracks.

The Iglesia de Santa Maria de Eunate is one of the most remarkable buildings on the Camino Frances, standing alone in a field about 1.5 km south of Murozabal. It's an octagonal 12th-century Romanesque church surrounded by a freestanding arcade of arches — a design so unusual that scholars have been arguing about its origins for centuries.

The name Eunate likely derives from the Basque for "hundred gates," a reference to the arcade's many openings. That arcade — roughly octagonal itself, with carved capitals and semicircular arches — surrounds the church at a slight distance, creating a covered walkway. It's unlike anything else in Navarra.

The Templar theory is popular but unproven. No documentary evidence links the church to the Knights Templar, though the octagonal form inevitably invites the comparison. The more likely builders were the Hospitallers, whose presence in this area is well documented. The church may have served as a funerary chapel for pilgrims who died on the road — pilgrim burials have been excavated in the surrounding field, and the octagonal plan echoes the Church of the Holy Sepulchre in Jerusalem, a common model for funerary architecture.

Inside, the church is bare and austere. The eight-ribbed vault rises to about 12 meters, with star-shaped openings in the ceiling that admit thin shafts of light. The alabaster windows keep the interior deliberately dark — appropriate for a church whose function may have been the performance of funerary rites. The Cordoban influence in the vault ribbing is unmistakable.

The church operates as a small museum with seasonal hours (generally 10:30-14:00 and 15:00-19:00 from late March through mid-October, with extended afternoon hours in July and August). A path connects Eunate directly to Obanos, so you can visit without backtracking to Murozabal.

Obanos sits at the junction where the Camino Aragones merges with the Camino Frances — a meeting point of routes that has defined this village for centuries. It's a compact hilltop settlement of about 850 people, with narrow streets, stone houses bearing carved coats of arms, and a small plaza around the Iglesia de San Juan Bautista, a neo-Gothic church rebuilt in the early 20th century.

A couple of bars and a small shop serve pilgrims. There's an albergue in town. The Ermita de Arnotegui, about 2.5 km up the hill, serves as a viewpoint over the Valdizarbe valley — it's the hermitage where, according to legend, the remorseful Guillen lived out his days.

The village is best known for the Misterio de Obanos, a passion play performed every other year (even-numbered years, end of July) that tells the tale of San Guillen and Santa Felicia — a medieval fratricide and redemption story rooted in this village. Over 700 actors in period costumes perform the outdoor production, which has been running since 1965.

Puente la Reina (Gares in Basque) is built along a single main street — the Calle Mayor — that runs from the Iglesia del Crucifijo at the eastern entrance to the famous medieval bridge at the western exit. In between lies a handsome town of stone houses, arcaded streets, and two churches worth seeing. The town's medieval grid of three parallel streets, laid out in the French bastide style, survives largely intact.

The Iglesia del Crucifijo, at the entrance to town, was founded by the Knights Templar in the late 12th century. It houses a striking Y-shaped crucifix — a 14th-century work, likely of German Rhineland origin, that arrived here via pilgrim hands. The unusual shape, with Christ's arms raised above his head on a tree-like cross, makes it unlike any other crucifix on the Camino. The church has two naves: the original Romanesque nave and a Gothic addition from the 14th century.

Further along the Calle Mayor, the Iglesia de Santiago has a Romanesque doorway with a multilobed arch showing Moorish influence — one of the finest carved portals in Navarra. Inside is the Santiago Beltza, a 14th-century Gothic wooden statue of Santiago Peregrino, darkened by age and once coated in soot. The name means "Black Santiago" in Basque.

The bridge itself — the Puente de los Peregrinos — is a six-arched Romanesque span over the Arga, 110 meters long, with smaller vent arches between the main arches to handle flood waters. It originally had three defensive towers, though only fragments of one survive. Cross it at the end of the day when the light hits the stone and you'll understand the fuss.

Several albergues operate in town, along with a handful of hotels and pensiones. Bars and restaurants line the main street, and there's a supermarket for provisions. The town has a pharmacy and an ATM. If you're arriving from the Camino Aragones via Eunate, you'll enter from the south and join the Frances here.

Mañeru is a small village whose labyrinthine streets seem designed to confuse. Every turn leads uphill, and the coats of arms carved into the facades of the larger houses suggest this was once a wealthier place than it appears today. A bar near the plaza and a small shop cover essentials.

The Iglesia de San Pedro sits at the heart of the village. The medieval street pattern is intact and worth a wander if you're not in a rush — it gives a sense of how these Navarrese hilltop villages were laid out for defense rather than convenience.

Cirauqui is perched on a conical hill and seems to go uphill in every direction. The camino enters through a medieval archway and climbs steeply to the Iglesia de San Román at the top, where the plaza and a small albergue provide a resting point. Don't forget to get your credencial stamped under the archway.

Like Mañeru, the village has impressive coats of arms carved into stone facades. The Iglesia de San Román preserves a 2,000-year-old Roman milestone inside — evidence of how old these routes really are. The views from the top of the village across the surrounding farmland and toward the Sierra del Perdón are excellent.

A bar operates on the main street. The descent from Cirauqui is one of the highlights of this stretch — the path drops down through a stone archway and onto an ancient Roman road, still paved with original stones in places, before crossing a Roman bridge over a small stream.

A well-preserved Roman bridge sits below Cirauqui where the ancient road crosses a small stream. The paving stones of the Roman calzada are visible on the approach, giving a tangible sense of walking the same route that travelers have used for two millennia. The bridge is a single arch of good masonry — functional rather than decorative, like most Roman engineering.

From here the path continues through farmland toward Lorca, with the terrain gently undulating through fields of wheat and sunflowers.

Lorca is a small village where the two bars are clustered at the far end near the main plaza and frontón court. It's a practical stop for a drink and a rest, but there's not much reason to linger unless you're interested in the historical footnotes.

The camino passes through quickly. A fountain provides water.

You'll cross the Río Iranzu on a double-arched Romanesque bridge to enter the old part of Villatuerta. The Iglesia de Nuestra Señora de la Asunción is worth a visit for its Romanesque elements and the carved capitals inside.

For food, Bar Lara has a local reputation for good cooking. Bar El Rebote is another option. If you're just passing through and need a coffee, the polideportivo (sports hall) at the entrance to town or the panadería will do. A small shop covers basics.

The village sits in the valley of the Iranzu, with Estella visible ahead to the northwest. The terrain between here and Estella is flat and easy.

Before entering Estella, a variant route branches off to the south, bypassing the city entirely and heading directly to Villamayor de Monjardín and Los Arcos. It's a rural alternative that avoids urban walking but also skips everything Estella has to offer — which is considerable.

The variant follows farm tracks and minor roads through open countryside. It's quieter and less marked than the main route. Unless you have a specific reason to skip Estella (or have already seen it on a previous walk), the main route through the city is the better option. Estella is one of the more interesting towns on the Francés.

Estella (Lizarra in Basque) has more historical architecture per square meter than most cities twice its size. The camino enters along the west bank of the Río Ega, but to see the best of the town you'll need to cross the river.

The two buildings not to miss are the Palacio de los Reyes de Navarra — a rare example of Romanesque civic architecture, with a carved capital depicting Roland's battle with the Saracen giant Ferragut — and the Iglesia de San Pedro de la Rúa, whose cloister is one of the finest Romanesque cloisters in Navarra. Two of its four galleries were destroyed when the castle above was demolished in the 16th century, but what remains is exceptional.

Other churches worth seeking out include the Iglesia del Santo Sepulcro (closed since 1881 but with a magnificent Gothic doorway), the Iglesia de San Miguel with its Romanesque tympanum, and the Basílica del Puy at the top of town. The climb to the Basílica is rewarded with views over the entire valley.

The old quarter is compact and pleasant for wandering. Several albergues operate on both sides of the river. Bars and restaurants line the streets, and the pintxos are solid. A supermarket and all basic services are available. The tourist office next to the Palacio has maps for walking trails in the surrounding area — useful if you're taking a rest day.

Ayegui has grown to merge with Estella and barely registers as a separate village. A few bars, a small park, and then you're through. The real interest lies ahead: the Fuente de Vino and the Monasterio de Irache are less than a kilometer away.

Sponsored by the Bodegas Irache, this is a fountain that dispenses both water and wine. Yes, really. A plaque on the wall reads: "If you want to go to Santiago with strength and vitality, of this great wine have a drink and toast to happiness." Another sign reminds you not to abuse the generosity.

The wine is Irache's basic table wine — perfectly drinkable if not exactly a revelation. The fountain operates during daylight hours and the supply occasionally runs dry on very busy days. A webcam lets armchair pilgrims watch from home.

The fountain sits beside the entrance to the Monasterio de Irache. Fill your bottle with water (from the water tap, not the wine one) and move on, or sit at the picnic tables opposite and enjoy the absurdity of free wine at 10 in the morning.

The Monasterio de Irache is a large monastic complex set among vineyards, its documented history reaching back to 958. It was the site of Navarra's first pilgrim hospital, and its buildings span Romanesque through Baroque periods. The church has a fine Romanesque apse; the Renaissance cloister is elegant; the Baroque additions are grand if less subtle.

Like many Spanish monasteries, Irache served as barracks for Napoleon's troops during the Peninsular War and as a military hospital during the Carlist Wars. It was abandoned in the 19th century and has been partially restored.

Free admission, though the monastery opens at 10:00 — later than most pilgrims departing from Estella would like. The park opposite has picnic tables and shade trees, making it a good rest stop regardless of whether the monastery is open.

Azqueta is a tiny village with a handful of houses and no reliable services. The Fuente de los Moros — a medieval cistern with a double-arched entrance and a long stone staircase descending to the water — sits just off the camino near the village. It dates to around 1200 and is worth a quick look if you notice the sign.

From here it's less than 2 km to Villamayor de Monjardín, with the castle ruins visible on the hilltop ahead.

Villamayor de Monjardín sits below the Monjardín peak (890 m), where the ruins of the 10th-century Castillo de San Esteban still command the hilltop. The climb to the ruins is short and steep, and the views from the top stretch across the vineyards and olive groves of the Ega valley — worth the detour if you have the energy.

The 12th-century Iglesia de San Andrés is Romanesque, with a barrel-vaulted nave and a semicircular apse. Inside, a silver Romanesque processional cross from the 12th century is the church's most valued possession. A small shop in front of the church operates from March through October, selling food and drinks.

A couple of albergues and a casa rural provide accommodation. This is your last chance to stock up before Los Arcos — the 12 km stretch ahead has no services, no shade, and no water. On hot days it can feel endless.

Luquin is a small village about 3 km south of the main camino, accessible by a variant path that branches off between Villamayor de Monjardín and Los Arcos. It has a couple of bars and a basic shop, but most pilgrims won't pass through unless they've taken the southern variant.

The village produces good wine from the surrounding vineyards. If you find yourself here, the local rosado is worth trying.

Los Arcos is a frontier town strung along streets that run parallel to the Río Odrón. You enter from the north, and the first thing you notice is that the place has the solid, well-built feel of a town that once had money and strategic importance.

The Iglesia de Santa María de la Asunción dominates the main plaza. It's a far grander church than a town this size would normally warrant — the Plateresque facade, the late Gothic cloister decorated with animal and plant carvings, and the extraordinary 1760 organ (possibly the most elaborate in Navarra, with three tiers of pipes and carved musician angels) all speak to the town's prosperous past. If the church is open, go in.

Several albergues, hotels, and pensiones operate in town. Bars and restaurants line the main street. A couple of bars near the main road on the southeast side open early for pilgrims and truck drivers. Saturday is market day.

Sansol is a small hilltop village that the arrows rush you through along the road. To see anything of interest — the church, the old baroque houses with their carved facades, and what remains of the village center — turn right at the ceramic tile sign at the entrance.

A small shop and a bar with a terrace near the Palacio albergue make this a reasonable place for a quick stop. The views from the upper village over the surrounding countryside are good.

Torres del Río sits in the valley of the Río Linares, its buildings restored to a state that makes the village look more populated than it actually is. The reason to stop here is the Iglesia del Santo Sepulcro — an octagonal Romanesque church built between 1160 and 1180 that ranks among the most remarkable small buildings on the Camino.

Like Eunate, the octagonal plan echoes the Church of the Holy Sepulchre in Jerusalem. But it's the interior that sets this church apart: the vault is a Hispano-Muslim design, its ribs crossing to form an eight-pointed star. Small openings between the ribs filter light through delicate grillwork, creating a play of light and shadow that changes through the day. A 13th-century crucifix — the Cristo de los Caballeros del Sepulcro — hangs in the apse.

The debate over its origins mirrors Eunate's: Templar, Hospitaller, or funerary? The scholarly consensus leans toward the Knights of the Holy Sepulchre, but certainty remains elusive. What's certain is that the building is exceptional. Ask at the bar about visiting hours — the church is kept locked but someone in the village holds the key.

A couple of albergues and bars serve the village. Basic supplies available.

Viana is the last town in Navarra and it wants you to know it has been here a while. The fortifications are obvious — the town perches on a ridge, its walls built high and thick to defend the Navarrese border against Castile and, later, La Rioja. The strategic logic is visible in every street.

The Iglesia de Santa María has a magnificent Renaissance facade — one of the finest in Navarra. At its base, a marble slab marks the grave of Cesare Borgia, who was killed in the fields outside Viana on March 11, 1507. The son of Pope Alexander VI and the model for Machiavelli's Prince, Borgia died in an ambush during a siege — a suitably dramatic end for a dramatic life. The epitaph reads simply: "Generalísimo de los ejércitos de Navarra y Pontificios."

The ruins of the Iglesia de San Pedro sit at the west end of town near a small park with views over the plains to the west and the mountains to the north. Several albergues, a handful of bars, and a few good restaurants (the Armendariz has a sidrería in the basement where you serve your own cider — a two-person operation involving careful aim and a bucket) make Viana worth more than a quick pass-through.

All services are available: pharmacy, ATM, supermarket.

A 17th-century ermita by the river, traditionally considered the border between Navarra and La Rioja (the official modern boundary is closer to Logroño, but nobody uses a paper factory as a landmark). A picnic area with shade trees and benches makes this a pleasant rest stop before the urban approach to Logroño.

The ermita is usually locked but the setting is the draw — riverside, shaded, and quiet.

You've left Navarra behind, and the Basque character that has been fading since Roncesvalles disappears almost entirely. La Rioja is Spain's second-smallest autonomous community and the smallest on the Camino Francés. The camino crosses it in about 60 km — roughly three days of walking.

The region is defined by wine. The Denominación de Origen Calificada Rioja is one of only two DOCa classifications in Spain, and the vineyards stretch in every direction from Logroño. Tempranillo is the dominant grape, and the range from young crianza to aged gran reserva provides excuse enough for extended tastings. The bodegas around Haro and Cenicero are open for visits, though they're off the camino route.

The landscape transitions from the green river valleys around Logroño to the drier, vine-covered hills heading west. The food is excellent — Rioja's pimientos, chorizo, patatas a la riojana, and lamb dishes are all worth seeking out, and even small-town bars take their cooking seriously.

To the south of Logroño lies Clavijo, where in 844 (according to legend) Santiago Matamoros made his first appearance. The story tells that during a battle between Ramiro I of Asturias and the Moors, Santiago appeared on a white horse to rally the Christian forces. The legend became the foundation myth of the Reconquista, and the image of Santiago on horseback with Moors underfoot appears in churches and cathedrals the length of the Camino.

For those with time, the Monasteries of Yuso and Suso in San Millán de la Cogolla (about 40 km south) are UNESCO World Heritage sites and among the finest monasteries in Spain. The Suso monastery is where the first written words in both Spanish and Basque were recorded.