Molinaseca

Molinaseca sits at the bottom of the descent from the Cruz de Ferro, and it feels like an arrival. After the exposed mountain, the steep rocky path, and the relentless downhill, this riverside town with its Romanesque bridge, its swimming spot in the Río Meruelo, and its bars with outdoor terraces is exactly what tired legs need.

The bridge — the Puente de los Peregrinos — is beautiful. In summer, pilgrims wade and swim in the river below it. The water is cold and clean and perfect.

The main street has several bars, restaurants, and albergues. The wine of the Bierzo (Mencía grape, mostly) starts appearing on menus here — it's lighter and fruitier than the Rioja you've been drinking since Logroño.