Vegarienza

Vegarienza has a nice albergue above the medical center, set up with the help of Olvidado supporters. Estela, who grew up in the village, worked in Madrid, and returned to care for her ailing brother, has the keys and will check you in. Her passion is for her village, not the camino per se — she hopes the albergue will help bring some life back to this tiny hamlet.

Restaurante Maxi, run by an elderly mother-daughter team, has been the only restaurant in the area for years. They've been trying to retire but can't bring themselves to leave the village with nothing. The kitchen is in the middle of the restaurant, giving you a front-row seat to the action. Check ahead to confirm it's open.