Porto
Camino Portugues
Porto is half the size of Lisbon and twice as rewarding for walking. The city drapes itself across the steep north bank of the Douro, and the historic centre — a UNESCO World Heritage site — earns every bit of its designation. Plan at least one extra day here.
Pick up your credencial at the Se do Porto if you haven't already, or get it stamped if you have. The cathedral, one of the oldest buildings in the city, is Romanesque in origin and fortress-like in character. The cloister's azulejo panels and the terrace views over the rooftops are worth the entrance fee.
The Torre dos Clerigos offers the most commanding 360-degree view of the city — 200 steep steps in a tight spiral. Leave your backpack below. The Igreja do Carmo next to it is unassuming from the outside but spectacular within. Sao Bento railway station, even if you're not catching a train, has an entrance hall covered in 20,000 azulejo tiles depicting Portuguese history — it's one of the most photographed interiors in the country.
The Livraria Lello, often cited as one of the most beautiful bookshops in the world, charges an entrance fee redeemable against a book purchase. The queue can be long. The Cais da Ribeira — the riverside boardwalk — is the social heart of the city, somewhat overpriced but atmospheric.
Three caminos leave Porto: the Central (north through Barcelos and Ponte de Lima to Tui), the Coastal (northwest along the coast through Vigo to Redondela), and the Braga Way (northeast through Braga, rejoining the Central before Santiago). The Central is the most popular and best serviced. The Coastal is growing quickly. The Braga Way has limited infrastructure.
Be aware that arrows in Porto may point to any of these three routes. Follow the Central Way signs heading north from the cathedral.
Before you set off be certain to pick up a pilgrim’s credencial if you have not already done so. It can be found at the Sé Cathedral. This accordion-fold booklet is your passport to the camino and will become your most cherished souvenir of the trip. It is a required document in most pilgrim-specific accommodation, earns you pilgrim prices in many museums, and will serve as proof of your journey when presented to the Pilgrim Office in Santiago if you are planning on getting your Compostela Certificate.As large towns go, Porto is no different when it comes to finding the camino. In fact, it is complicated somewhat by the fact that there are three different caminos between here and Santiago, be aware that you may see signs indicating the ‘Coastal Route’ or the ‘Braga Route,’ or the ‘Central Route’; amongst others.
Porto gave Portugal its name — Portus Cale, the Roman settlement at the mouth of the Douro, evolved into Portucale and eventually Portugal. The city has long valued its independence, earning the nickname Cidade Invicta (The Unvanquished City) after withstanding an 18-month siege by the absolutist King Miguel I in 1832-33. The liberal constitution was preserved, Miguel abdicated, and Porto's resistance became a defining moment of Portuguese political history.
The Port wine trade, controlled by British merchants since the 18th-century Methuen Treaty, shaped the city's economy and architecture. The lodges in Vila Nova de Gaia, the grand houses on the hillside, and the English-style churches all reflect centuries of Anglo-Portuguese commerce.
Between Porto and the border with Spain, the camino splits into three distinct routes. They are known as the Central Way, the Coastal & Litoral Ways, and the Braga Way. Additionally, there are several paths that connect each of these options, creating a network of trails that can sometimes seem confusing. The best plan is to pick one of the options and simply follow it to its natural end.Leaving a large city is often a challenging combination of searching for arrows, heavy traffic, and durable city pavements. As an alternative, it is possible to take the Porto Metro to the city limits or beyond.THE CENTRAL WAYThe Central Way is currently the most popular and well-developed option. As the name implies, the route continues due north from Porto up the center of Portugal. It crosses into Spain at Valença/Tui and continues from there through Redondela to Santiago. THE COASTAL and LITORAL WAYSThe Coastal Way is gaining in popularity as the infrastructure and signage improve. It is sometimes referred to as the Senda Litoral, although this name is technically reserved for the sections of the route that strictly follow the coast. As the primary motivation for choosing the route is the proximity to seaside views, the route set out in this book is a combination of these two routes and the blue line indicated on the map should be interpreted as such. It leaves Porto along the Litoral Route, rather than sharing the first day of walking with the Central Way before turning westward. Where options exist they are indicated on the inset maps. The route passes through Vigo and rejoins the Central Way in Redondela.THE BRAGA WAYSome would consider this the original way, as it passes through the city of Braga where many of the Church's earliest decisions regarding Santiago were made, and where the first Bishop ordained by Santiago (Saint Peter of Braga/Rates) officiated. It was once the capital of Galicia and remains an influential city and massive tourist attraction. These days the infrastructure along the route has not kept pace with the needs of pilgrims and it is seldom traveled. Tours to Braga can be arranged in Barcelos (on the Central Way) if you wish to visit the city. This route is not included in this guide.THE VARIANTE ESPIRITUALThe Variante Espiritual is a popular alternative route north of Pontevedra. It is a two day walk which ends in a 29km boat ride to the town of Pontecesures.
Accommodation in Porto.
| Albergue de peregrinos Porto 16€ 52 |
|
| Spot Hostel 20+€ 42 Booking.com |
|
| The Poets Inn Booking.com |
|
| Gallery Hostel 22*€ 40 Booking.com |
|
| Porto Lounge Hostel 17*€ 26 Booking.com |
|
| Albergue de Peregrinos da Senhora da Hora 13€ 20 |
|
| AHBV Porto Donativo€ 2 |
Comments