Alcoutim

Alcoutim is a lovely village of whitewashed houses with orange roofs, sitting opposite the equally picturesque Spanish village of Sanlucar de Guadiana across the river. The 14th-century castle above town is worth the climb for the views. On the riverside, look for the otter sculpture made from garbage — part of Portuguese street artist Bordalo II's Big Trash Animals series.

There are two places to stay. Hotel d'Alcoutim is a resort-style property with a pool and tennis court, about a kilometer north of the village. Alojamento Brisas, in the village itself, is a better choice — two rooms at 45 euros (en-suite) or 40 euros (bathroom outside the room). Call or text +351 967 531 064 to book.

Alcoutim has a small supermarket, cafes, and a riverside promenade. It's the last proper village before the long, remote stretch to Mertola.