Monistrol-d'Allier sits wedged into the floor of the Allier gorge at about 590 m, the lowest point between Le Puy and Saugues. The village clusters around a bridge over the Allier, one of Europe's last wild rivers, and basalt cliffs rise steeply on both sides. After the long descent from the plateau above, it feels like arriving in a different world.
The village has several gites and chambres d'hotes, a couple of restaurants, and a small shop. The 12th-century Eglise Saint-Pierre has fine polychrome wooden statues in the Auvergne Romanesque style. Look for the Eiffel bridge, a green metal footbridge attributed to the same workshops as the famous tower.
Above the village, the Chapelle de la Madeleine is built into natural caves in the basalt cliff and is worth the short detour if you have the energy. The views back down to the Allier from the chapel are extraordinary.
The climb out of Monistrol toward Saugues is one of the toughest on the entire Via Podiensis. You'll gain roughly 380 m over 6 km of sustained climbing, much of it steep. Start early, take it slowly, and carry water. There are no services between Monistrol and Saugues.
The name derives from "monasteriolum" (small monastery), and there has been a religious community here since at least the 11th century. The Chapelle Notre-Dame d'Estours, on a height above the village, dates from the 12th century and is said to have been built by the same masons who worked on Le Puy's cathedral. It hosts a pilgrimage on the first Sunday of September each year.
The Allier itself has been a migration route for Atlantic salmon since prehistory. Though numbers have dwindled dramatically, salmon still run the river.
Leaving Monistrol, you cross the bridge and begin climbing immediately. The path switchbacks steeply up through basalt scree and forest. The first landmark is the Chapelle de la Madeleine, a troglodyte chapel built into a natural cave in the cliff face, with organ-pipe basalt formations nearby. It's a remarkable site and the views back down into the gorge are worth the pause.
Above the chapel, the trail continues climbing through the hamlet of Escluzels and on up to the plateau. The gradient eventually eases as you reach the farmland above, but the climb is long and unrelenting. Once on the plateau, the terrain gentles into rolling pasture through small hamlets, eventually descending into Saugues.
Accommodation in Monistrol-d’Allier.
| Gîte du Pont Eiffel 15€ 10 |
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| Gîte d´étape au Ricochet 45**€ 15 |
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| Gîte et chambre d'hôtes Le Repos du Pèlerin 34**€ 15 |
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| Gîte d´étape La Tsabone 33**€ 12 |
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