Lectoure
The Vía Podiensis
Lectoure is a major town and one of the finest stops on the Via Podiensis. It sits on a long east-west ridge with views over the Gers valley on both sides, and on clear days, the Pyrenees line the southern horizon. The Bastion Promenade is the place for the panorama.
Start at the Musee Archeologique in the vaulted cellars of the town hall. It holds the largest collection of taurobolic altars outside Rome: about 20 Gallo-Roman stone altars decorated with sacrificial bulls, relics of the cult of Cybele practiced here in the 2nd and 3rd centuries AD. The collection is described as unique in Europe.
The Cathedral Saint-Gervais-et-Saint-Protais is southern Gothic, with origins in the 12th century and a major rebuild after 1480. At the height of the Armagnac era, no fewer than 30 towers lined the main street between the cathedral and the castle. A few survive, including the 13th-century Tour d'Albinhac.
For something unexpected, visit the Bleu de Lectoure workshop. In the Middle Ages, woad was the source of blue dye in Europe, and the pastel trade made fortunes across southern France until Indian indigo destroyed the market in the 16th century. In 1994, a local couple spent two years rediscovering the traditional process with chemists from the University of Toulouse. Their workshop and boutique in Lectoure are open for visits.
The Fontaine Diane in the southern ramparts dates to Roman times, with three underground springs feeding a covered basin since the late 12th century.
Full services: shops, supermarket, bakery, restaurants, pharmacy, banks, post office, tourist office, multiple pilgrim accommodation options. There's also a thermal spa, drawing water from over 1,000 m deep at 42 degrees. The Friday morning market is the main weekly event.
Lectoure began as the Celtic oppidum of the Lactorates, then became the Roman city of Lactora. The cult of the Mother Goddess Cybele flourished here in the 2nd and 3rd centuries, leaving behind the taurobolic altars in the museum.
In 1325, Lectoure became the capital of the County of Armagnac, ruled by a powerful family descended from the ancient Dukes of Gascony. The Armagnacs built extensively, and the town bristled with 30-plus towers. The end was violent. In 1473, after a siege lasting from January to March, Louis XI's troops entered the town under a promise of safe passage and then massacred the inhabitants. Jean V d'Armagnac was stabbed in his bed in the presence of his wife, Jeanne de Foix. The cathedral was partially destroyed, houses were burned, and ramparts dismantled.
The cathedral was rebuilt after 1480, and Louis XI granted Lectoure privileges as compensation. The town joined the Protestant side during the Wars of Religion, then reverted to Catholicism in the 17th century.
From Lectoure the path continues west through the rolling green hills of Gascony. The terrain is gentle and agricultural: sunflowers, maize, vineyards, and the first Armagnac estates. The next major town is Condom, about 35 km away.
Accommodation in Lectoure.
| Gîte d´étape Grya 17€ 4 |
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| Gîte d´étape Le Pas Sage 16€ 8 |
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| Gîte l'Etoile Occitane 20*€ 14 |
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| Gîte et chambre d'hôtes Le Boudoir 18€ 6 |
| Accueil Presbytère de Lectoure Donativo€ 10 |
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