Le Puy-en-Velay
The Vía Podiensis
Le Puy-en-Velay is where it all begins. This small city in the volcanic heart of the Massif Central has been sending pilgrims toward Santiago for over a thousand years, and it shows. The old town climbs steeply around its cathedral, and from almost anywhere you can see the extraordinary volcanic plugs that define the skyline: the Rocher Corneille topped by a colossal red statue of the Virgin, and the needle-thin Rocher Saint-Michel d'Aiguilhe with its 10th-century chapel perched impossibly at the summit.
Give yourself at least a full day here before setting off. You'll want to be rested, your pack sorted, and your feet ready. Le Puy is a proper town with everything you need: outdoor gear shops, pharmacies, supermarkets, banks, and a train station with connections to Lyon and Saint-Etienne.
Start at the cathedral. The Cathedrale Notre-Dame du Puy is built into the slope of Mont Anis, and you enter through a stone staircase that passes directly under the nave. Inside, the Black Madonna sits above the high altar. She's a 19th-century copy of the original, which was burned during the Revolution, but the devotion is ancient and real. Look for the Pierre des Fievres in the south aisle, a basaltic stone that pilgrims have lain on for centuries, believing it could cure fevers.
The cloister adjacent to the cathedral is one of the finest Romanesque cloisters in France. Its polychrome arches of white, red, and black stone are unlike anything you'll see on the rest of the route. Don't skip it.
Climb the 268 steps of the Rocher Saint-Michel d'Aiguilhe to visit the chapel at the top. It was built in 969 to commemorate Bishop Godescalc's return from Santiago, one of the earliest recorded pilgrimages on this route. The views from the top are worth every step.
The pilgrim office at 2 Rue Saint-Jacques issues credencials and can direct you to accommodation. Every morning at 7:00 a.m., a pilgrim mass is celebrated at the cathedral, followed by a blessing. This is the traditional send-off, and even if you're not religious, it's a moving way to start.
Le Puy is also famous for its green lentils (Lentilles du Puy, with their own AOC) and for bobbin lace, a tradition that dates back to the 15th century. The lace was born here precisely because of the pilgrimage, as lacemakers supplied religious vestments. A few workshops remain, and you'll see their work in shop windows throughout the old town.
Pick up your credencial at the pilgrim office (2 Rue Saint-Jacques) before you leave. You'll need it for stamps along the way, for access to pilgrim accommodation, and ultimately for your Compostela in Santiago. The pilgrim mass and blessing at the cathedral is at 7:00 a.m. daily during the walking season.
Market days are Saturday (large market in Place du Plot and surrounding streets) and Wednesday (smaller). The Fetes Renaissance du Roi de l'Oiseau, held in September, transforms the old town into a Renaissance festival with 6,000 costumed participants, archery competitions, and a medieval market. It's one of the largest historical re-enactments in France, running since 1986 and based on a tradition from 1524.
Le Puy has been a pilgrimage site since before Charlemagne, who visited twice, in 772 and 800. The cathedral's origins date to the 5th century, though the current Romanesque building is mostly 11th and 12th century with strong Byzantine and Moorish influences from the Crusades.
In 951, Bishop Godescalc of Le Puy made the journey to Santiago de Compostela, the first documented French pilgrim to do so. His route became the Via Podiensis, and it's the one you're about to walk.
The city was granted a special Jubilee whenever Good Friday falls on March 25, the Feast of the Annunciation. In the Jubilee of 1407, the crowd was so enormous that 200 pilgrims suffocated. The tradition continues, and Jubilee years still draw huge numbers.
Through the Middle Ages, Le Puy rivaled even Rome as a pilgrimage destination. The popes themselves came, Clement IV had been bishop here before his election. Pilgrims arrived from across Europe, and many continued on to Santiago. The city's wealth, its lace industry, and its extraordinary architecture all grew from this pilgrim traffic.
You leave Le Puy by descending the cathedral steps, passing under the nave through the Porche du For, and following Rue des Tables down into the old town. The red-and-white GR65 waymarks appear quickly and lead you southwest through the suburb of Vals-pres-le-Puy.
The walk to Saint-Privat-d'Allier covers roughly 23.5 km with about 660 m of elevation gain. It's a solid first day through rolling volcanic countryside. The terrain is a mix of farm tracks, minor roads, and footpaths through pastures dotted with small granite hamlets.
After Vals, the route climbs gently through open farmland toward Saint-Christophe-sur-Dolaison and then Ramourouscle. The landscape is classic Velay: green pastures on basalt plateaus with wide views back toward the volcanic peaks of Le Puy. Montbonnet, at roughly 1,120 m, sits at the crossroads of the GR65 and GR40, and has gites and a 13th-century chapel. Beyond Montbonnet, the path descends gradually through farmland toward Le Chier and then Saint-Privat-d'Allier.
There are no services to speak of between Le Puy and Montbonnet apart from occasional water points. Plan ahead, especially in summer.
Accommodation in Le Puy-en-Velay.
| Auberge de Jeunesse Pierre Cardinal 14.7€ 50 |
| Gîte d´étape La Colline Aux Cabanes 20€ 20 Booking.com |
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| Gîte Camping Le Bellevue | |
| Gîte d´étape des Capucins 19€ 19 Booking.com |
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| Grand Séminaire - Accueil Saint Georges 208 |
| Gîte d´étape Le Relais du Pelerin Saint Jacques Donativo€ 27 |
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| Gîte d´étape Accueil Saint-François 22*€ 19 |
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