Pontevedra
Camino Portugues
Pontevedra has one of the most walkable old towns in Galicia — the entire historic centre is pedestrianised, and you could spend a happy afternoon wandering its granite squares without a map.
Your entrance is punctuated by the Iglesia de la Virgen Peregrina, a scallop-shell-shaped shrine to the Pilgrim Virgin who, according to legend, guided pilgrims here from Baiona. Inside, the polychrome retablo and the unusual round floor plan are worth a look.
The Basilica de Santa Maria la Mayor, often called the cathedral (Pontevedra lost its bishop to Vigo in 1959), has a spectacular Plateresque facade. The Convento de San Francisco preserves Gothic arches and a fine stone cross. The Plaza de la Lena, the smallest and most atmospheric of the old town plazas, is the one to aim for if you only have time for one coffee.
The Museo de Pontevedra is spread across several buildings and is one of the best provincial museums in Galicia — the collection includes Celtic gold torques, Sargadelos ceramics, and a significant holding of Spanish paintings.
Two routes leave Pontevedra for Santiago: the original camino inland via Caldas de Reis (36 km, the shortest and most popular), and the Variante Espiritual via Combarro and Armenteira (44 km on foot plus 28 km by boat or on foot). The split is about 3 km after the bridge, well signposted. All services available.
Local legend claims Pontevedra was founded by Teucro, a hero of the Trojan War who couldn't return home to Salamis after the fall of Troy (his father Ajax blamed him for his brother's death). Teucro wandered the Mediterranean founding cities — Pontevedra was allegedly one of them. The historical truth is less dramatic: the Romans called it Ad Duos Pontes (at the two bridges), and the town grew at the crossing of the Lerez river. The Plaza de Teucro in the old town keeps the legend alive.
Leave by crossing the Ponte do Burgo and heading straight-ish through the next roundabout, turning left immediately after. Before long you will be alongside the railway, which you will cross just before the church of Alba.TWO WAYS TO PONTECESURES / PADRÓNThere are two routes to Pontecesures/Padrón from Pontevedra, and the split occurs about 3km after crossing the bridge in Pontevedra. The original camino keeps on its inland trajectory and is currently the most popular choice among pilgrims. It is also the shortest.The second option is known as the Variante Espiritual and it turns westward to cross over the Monte Redondo as it heads towards the sea at Vilanova de Arousa. From here you have the option of a 3rd day of walking to Pontecesures or a trip by boat up the Ría to the same place. This variant was created and named by the local tourism sector and although the stories told about its origins are fantastic, they are also just that... stories. Don’t let this clever bit of marketing discourage you though, the route is recognized by the Pilgrim Office as an official variant and you will not have any difficulty obtaining your Compostela regardless of whether you take the boat or not.This recognition, and lots of praise from pilgrims, means that this route is growing in popularity. VIA THE VARIANTE ESPIRITUAL - 44. km on foot + 28 km on foot or ferryThe Variante Espiritual is an alternative route which connects Pontevedra with Pontecesures. It adds 8.2km of walking (and a significant climb to the top of the Monte Redondo) and another 28km by boat (from Vilanova de Arousa to Pontecesures).Getting started is as simple as turning left at the well signposted fork in the road. The way almost immediately begins climbing upwards, though gently at first. It is making its way back to the Ría de Pontevedra, going up and around a small monte before arriving in the waterfront town of Combarro. There is one small hamlet before arriving at Cabaleiro, and it has a bar/shop with a very limited selection, but as it has odd hours it is not included here as being reliable.THE ORIGINAL CAMINO, INLAND VIA CALDAS DE REIS - 36.3 kmThis is the easiest to navigate and shortest of the options. From the split simply carry on straight.
Accommodation in Pontevedra.
| Albergue de Peregrinos (Virgen Peregrina) 10€ 56 |
| Aloxa Hostel 19-25€ 60 |
|
| Slow City Hostel 20-23€ 6 Booking.com |
|
| Albergue Acolá 21*€ 16 Booking.com |
|
| Hostel Nacama 18-20€ 42 |
|
| dpaso Urban Hostel 20+€ 20 Booking.com |
|
| Turoqua Hostel 18-24€ 20 Booking.com |
|
| GBC Hostel Pontevedra 19+€ 40 Booking.com |
|
Comments