Baiona has a well-preserved old town, a waterfront with several sheltered beaches, and a peninsular fortress that rewards an extra 2 kilometers of walking with some of the best views on the Coastal route. Although there's no pilgrim albergue, it remains a favorite overnight stop.
The camino delivers you first to the Ex-colegiata de Santa Maria, a 13th-century collegiate church that mixes Romanesque and Gothic elements. Next door is the Capela de Santa Liberata, consecrated in honor of a local martyr said to have been the first woman crucified -- an unusual distinction. Both churches stand at the edge of the old town.
The Fortaleza de Monterreal occupies the entire peninsula south of town and is now a Parador hotel, though the walls and grounds are open to walkers. The 2-kilometer circuit around the ramparts puts the full sweep of the Atlantic on display. The Museo de la Carabela Pinta is located nearby and offers a sobering look at what oceanic exploration actually entailed in a ship the size of a large living room.
During the first week of March, Baiona celebrates the Fiesta de la Arribada, a festival marking the return of La Pinta with news of the New World. The town recreates a 15th-century market, and the harbor fills with period vessels.
On the 1st of March, 1493, Baiona became the first place in the Old World to learn of Christopher Columbus's successful voyage to the Americas. It was La Pinta that arrived here, captained by Martin Alonso Pinzon -- the experienced navigator whom many historians credit as the practical brain behind the expedition. The news reached Spain three days before Columbus himself would arrive, storm-tossed, at the port of Lisbon. The town celebrated; the King and Queen remained unaware of either arrival.
Pinzon was gravely ill when he landed and died within weeks, never receiving the recognition his role deserved. The replica of La Pinta in the harbor is a reminder of just how small these vessels were for crossing an unknown ocean.
The camino leaves Baiona along the Rúa Ventura Misa, the old town road that is set inland from the main road which follows the coast. It is possible to follow the main road out of town and all the way to Ramallosa.
The arrows are abundant and will take you past and over a pair of small rivers, first the Río da Baíña and then the Río da Groba. It makes the crossing to Ramallosa along an ancient stone now-pedestrian bridge adjacent to the main road. Once over it turns right then left again.
Accommodation in Baiona.
| Hostel BaionaMar 15-19€ 18 Booking.com |
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| Estela do Mar 16/17€ 20 Booking.com |
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