Markina-Xemein
Camino del Norte
Markina-Xemein is the first town of substance after crossing into Bizkaia, and it has more to offer than its modest size suggests.
The star attraction is San Miguel de Arretxinaga — a hexagonal 18th-century chapel built around three enormous boulders that lean against each other to form a natural chamber. The Archangel Michael stands at the center of this geological accident, and the effect is genuinely unlike anything else on any camino. The name Arretxinaga means 'place where the stones lie.' According to local legend, an unmarried man who passes beneath the boulders three times will find a wife within the year.
Markina is also the self-proclaimed University of Pelota. The municipal frontón, inaugurated in 1798 and seating nearly 1,000, has produced so many professional jai alai players of international fame that the nickname stuck. If you're here in the evening, watching a match is time well spent — the speed and violence of the ball is startling.
Other monuments include the Convento e Iglesia de la Merced and the Iglesia de Santa María de la Asunción de Xemein. The town has bars, restaurants, a small supermarket, and accommodation.
Market day is Thursday, in the Plaza del Mercado. June: San Juan is celebrated on the 24th and San Pedro the 29th. July: San Martín on the 7th, San Cristóbal on the 10th, and San Ignacio de Loyola the 31st. August: Goerria on the 1st, Nuestra Señora de las Nieves on the 5th, and San Jacinto on the 17th. September: Nuestra Señora de Erdotza on the 8th and San Miguel Arcángel on the 29th. October: Santa Teresa de Jesús on the 15th.
Markina's frontón has been the proving ground for Basque pelota players since 1798. Champions like Narciso Salazar, Arnedillo Mayor, and Cazalis Menor emerged from here at the turn of the 20th century, followed by Andrinua, Muguerza I, and Orbea I. Many emigrated to play professionally in Florida and Latin America, spreading Basque culture through the sport. The town's connection to pelota runs deeper than mere tradition — it's an identity.
The marked camino passes the church and convent and turns right at the first street past them. Follow the road across a small river and turn left at the first road, keeping close to the nearby building to follow a park trail as is wiggles its way along the river. The camino will take you back over the river (though it is covered so you might not notice) and then under the BI-633. It follows along a smaller river past an industrial park and into Iruzubieta.
Accommodation in Markina-Xemein.
| Albergue Intxauspe 15€ 16 |
| Albergue de peregrinos Convento del Carmen Markina 10€ 40 |
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