Puerto de Pajares
Camino de San Salvador
The Puerto de Pajares is one of the few mountain passes that for centuries has offered passage over the Cantabrian Mountains from the meseta into Asturias. It remained the primary corridor until the construction of the A-66 motorway to the west. It's still a difficult road for drivers, and snow is not uncommon here as late as June.
The old Parador has reopened its bar — worth a stop for the views alone. Across the road, Venta Casimiro has rebuilt after a fire and is the bar "de siempre" — go there for soul and a real meal, the Parador for views. You've earned either or both after the mountain crossing.
At approximately 1,378 m elevation, the air is noticeably cooler than the meseta you left behind. From here, it's all downhill into Asturias.
Snow is possible at the Puerto de Pajares well into June. If you're crossing in spring or early summer, check conditions before setting out from Poladura. The bar at the pass may keep limited hours outside the summer season — don't count on it.
The Puerto de Pajares has been the main crossing between León and Asturias since pre-Roman times. The Romans improved the route, and it remained the primary road connection until modern highway construction. In 1884, the railway tunnel through the mountains opened, connecting León to Gijón and transforming the economy of northern Spain. The old Parador was built as a government rest house for travelers crossing the pass — a tradition of hospitality at this site that stretches back to the medieval hospice at Arbas below.
The camino leaves the main road to follow a trail behind some farm houses at the far end of the alto. If you've gone as far as the old Parador, you'll need to backtrack a bit and avoid the temptation to follow the road. At the farm buildings, turn right and begin a gentle ascent to the border between León and Asturias.
Here you'll pass through a gate and descend back to the national road — which is genuinely dangerous with fast traffic. Cross over the road with extreme caution to resume along a trail down to Pajares.
Along the way to Pajares you'll find a junction requiring you to choose between Pajares or San Miguel. The route through San Miguel also arrives at Pajares but takes 5 km longer. It's only recommended for cyclists or pilgrims who intend to sleep in Bendueños (1.5 km off camino).
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