Arzúa

Camino Frances

Camino del Norte

Camino Primitivo

To end of camino
38.5
Altitude
385

Ribadiso da Carretera

2.30

Arzúa

2.30

Pregontoño

Services
ATM
Yes
Bar
Yes
Bus
Yes
Grocery
Yes
Medical Center
Yes
Pharmacy
Yes
Public Pool
Yes

Arzúa is the cheese capital of Galicia. The Queixo de Arzúa-Ulloa has its own Denominación de Orixe, and the tetilla cheese — named for its distinctive breast shape — is everywhere. The tetilla's form was supposedly created by cheesemakers in protest: when the bishop ordered the removal of nude figures from the Pórtico de la Gloria in Santiago, the cheesemakers responded by making their product unmistakably anatomical. The story may be apocryphal, but the cheese is real and excellent.

This is where the Camino del Norte joins the Francés, and the trail gets noticeably busier from here to Santiago. The town is functional and well-serviced: multiple albergues and hotels, bars and restaurants, supermarkets. If everything is full, the polideportivo (sports hall) is sometimes opened for overflow.

The camino leaves Arzúa on a footpath, not the road. From the main square, walk past the church (back to the road) and turn right.

Fiesta

The Festival of Cheese in March is a three-day celebration of the local product — 40 years running. Corpus Christi and Nuestra Señora del Carmen (July 16) are also celebrated.

History

Arzúa has been a waypoint on the pilgrim road since the earliest documented routes. Its position at the junction of the Francés and Norte routes made it a natural gathering point.

The Road

The camino leaves Arzúa along a footpath, NOT the road. If you arrived at the main square, walk past the church (with your back to the road) and turn right onto the side street. The terrain is pleasant, a blend of trails and paved roads through small towns and lots of forests. There are a few steep sections but none of any considerable length.

Comments

All Caminos App User (not verified)

Start serving breakfast at 6:30. Many choices not just what we pilgrims have been eating for 30 plus days.

Very friendly service.

Also great Callie’s cookie and coffee.

I had a burger and then came back the next day for breakfast.

All Caminos App User (not verified)

On the way out of town on right side Bar Ameixa is open at 6am for coffee and eats.
Hard to find sometimes when you hit the path early

All Caminos App User (not verified)

Horrible experience. Dirty, moldy rooms, moldy bathroom, mold everywhere. Waited 30 minutes after walking 18 miles for a man to come although online said a receptionist would be present from 1-7pm. Dirty couches in common area. No elevator and rooms are on 4th floor.

Not recommended for the amount of money I paid for this. If it was less than 25 euros I would stay here but not for 65. Bad bad bad

All Caminos App User (not verified)

A little off the Camino, but has huge portions and filled with locals, really enjoyed churrasco de terneira here, highly recommend.

All Caminos App User (not verified)

This lovely, new pension is just a block off The Camino and a block from the Municipal albergue and is a great choice for an overnight stay. The hosts are very nice and the rooms are clean and modern (this was my second stay there). Excellent breakfast available, too. Easy walk to cafes, supermarket, and restaurants. Highly recommended.

All Caminos App User (not verified)

I had been fairly successful using Trip Advisor to select restaurants for a late lunch / early dinner along the Camino until Arzua. The hours shown in Trip Advisor for the first two restaurants we tried were wrong: both closed. Third restaurant was fully reserved. We ended up going to a supermarket and getting food there.

All Caminos App User (not verified)

We found one place available for lunch on a Tuesday, Casa de Chelo. It’s market day so perhaps that’s the primary source of food for the day? Recommend booking ahead here if you can or plan on going to the market.

All Caminos App User (not verified)

Everything said about this place so far is true. It’s clean, comfortable bed, quiet, away from the city, next door to a hotel restaurant. The owner is an amazing man, he carried my bags, hung my wet jackets to dry, he really cared I get a good experience.
This place doesn’t have a Camino alberque vibe but I’d still give it a 5 star rating

All Caminos App User (not verified)

The church off the main square appears closed. No signs for Mass, but around 6:15 pm the doors open for Mass at 7 pm. Guitar-playing nun, the priest spoke English and inquired as to nationalities represented. Lovely welcome! Sellos after Mass.

All Caminos App User (not verified)

What a beautiful place to stay! Clean, modern and bright rooms. Get a room facing the back for a gorgeous view of the countryside. It is @ 1 km prior to the city of Arzua and worth the stay. Highly recommended.