Left to Pola de Allande or Right for Hospitales

This is the most significant decision point on the Primitivo. Left takes you down to Pola de Allande via the valley road -- longer but lower, with services along the way. Right takes you over the mountains on the Hospitales route -- shorter, higher, exposed, and with no services whatsoever until you descend to the other side.

The Hospitales route crosses open mountain terrain above 1,000 meters, passing the ruins of two medieval pilgrim hospitals that gave the route its name. In clear weather the views are extraordinary -- the Cantabrian mountains stretching in every direction. In poor weather it can be genuinely dangerous: fog, rain, wind, and no shelter. Check the forecast before committing, and don't start late in the day.