Zamora
Via de la Plata
Zamora is one of the great Romanesque cities of Europe. Fourteen Romanesque churches stand in the old town alone, with more in the surrounding area — a concentration unmatched anywhere in Spain. If the quantity overwhelms you, focus on two: the Catedral de San Salvador and the Iglesia de Santiago del Burgo.
The Cathedral, built in just 23 years in the 12th century (the blink of an eye for medieval construction), is crowned by a Byzantine-influenced dome covered in fish-scale stone tiles — unique in Spain. The adjacent Castillo de Zamora is older, dating to the 11th century. Together they overlook the Río Duero from the western edge of the old town.
Three museums merit a visit. The Museo Etnográfico de Castilla y Leon is the most ambitious — a modern building housing a comprehensive collection of rural Castilian life. The Museo Catedralicio de Zamora has the cathedral's treasury. The Museo de Semana Santa is the best substitute for not experiencing the real thing — Zamora's Holy Week processions are among the most dramatic in Spain.
In the evening, cross the Puente de Piedra to the south bank of the Duero and walk to the Playa de los Pelambres for sunset views of the cathedral. When ready to return, cross via the Puente de los Poetas. On the far side, the Iglesia de Santiago del Burgo — the oldest and smallest of the Romanesque churches — is illuminated at night and makes for a peaceful final stop.
The old town is entered through several medieval gates. The Portillo de la Traicion (now diplomatically renamed Portillo de la Lealtad) is where King Sancho II was murdered during the siege of 1072 — an event celebrated in the Romancero and tied to the legend of El Cid. All services available.
There's a separate set of arrows directing the way along the Camino Portugues de la Plata, a route that turns westward into Portugal. At the same time, the Camino de Levante from Valencia enters Zamora from the east. Pay attention to which arrows you're following when leaving the city.
Zamora's Semana Santa is the city's defining event -- declared of Interes Turistico Internacional in 1986 and Bien de Interes Cultural in 2015, the first Holy Week celebration in Spain to receive that designation. The earliest documented references to the Passion processions here date to 1179. Today, 17 cofradias and more than 40 processions fill the medieval streets over 10 days. The atmosphere is solemn and deeply felt -- nothing like the more festive celebrations in Andalucia. If your timing is right, this alone is worth reshaping your itinerary for.
The weekly market is on Wednesdays.
Zamora's most dramatic moment came in 1072, when King Sancho II of Castile besieged the city, then held by his sister Urraca. During the siege, a nobleman named Bellido Dolfos slipped out of the city and killed Sancho — stabbing him, according to legend, while the king was relieving himself. The act was either treachery or patriotic defense depending on who tells the story. El Cid, then serving Sancho, famously pursued Dolfos back to the city gates but arrived too late. Sancho's brother Alfonso VI inherited both kingdoms and went on to lose Toledo to the Almoravids.
The Irmandiña-style revolts of the 15th century didn't spare Zamora either — the Comuneros movement of 1520-21 found strong support here among citizens resisting the centralizing ambitions of Charles V.
The camino through the old town crosses the Plaza Mayor onto Calle de las Costanillas, which it follows downhill to the first roundabout. Cross directly over and keep to this road as it passes through the next large intersection (passing the Iglesia de San Lazaro). Shortly after, the road splits and the camino veers left. The way is well marked with signs on posts. Along this stretch you may see conflicting arrows from the Camino Portugues de la Plata and the Camino de Levante -- follow the Via de la Plata markings north.
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