Puebla de Sanabria
Via de la Plata
Camino Sanabrés
The camino through Puebla follows a path that skips entirely the oldest and best parts of town. Don't let it. Climb the hill to the old quarter -- it's short, it's steep, and it's worth every step.
Puebla de Sanabria is the finest walled town on the entire Camino Sanabres. The Castillo de los Condes de Benavente commands the hilltop, built in the 15th century by Rodrigo Alonso Pimentel, 4th Count of Benavente, over the remains of an earlier fortification. The castle has been beautifully restored and now houses a museum and visitor centre. Climb the enormous keep for views that stretch across the valley and into the mountains beyond. On a clear day you can see the Sierra de la Culebra to the south and the Galician mountains to the west -- the same mountains you'll be crossing in a day or two.
The old town within the walls is a tangle of stone houses, narrow lanes, and a 12th-century church. It feels like a place that time has been gentle with. Below the walls, the newer part of town stretches along the river with all the services you'll need: bars, restaurants, shops, pharmacy, ATM, and a municipal albergue on the east side of the river.
Lago de Sanabria, the largest natural glacial lake on the Iberian Peninsula, is about 15 km northwest of town. If you have a rest day, it's worth the trip -- the lake sits at nearly 1,000 m altitude, surrounded by mountains, and is part of a natural park. Buses run in summer, or you can arrange a taxi.
This is your last major resupply point before the mountain crossing into Galicia. Make sure you have everything you need.
Stock up on supplies here. The mountain crossing ahead has limited services, and you won't find a town this well-equipped again until La Gudina in Galicia.
Puebla de Sanabria was established as a fortified town in the 12th century to defend the kingdom of Leon against Portugal. By the 13th century it was one of the most important military strongholds in the region. The castle was begun in 1455 by the 4th Count of Benavente and completed in 1499, though construction was interrupted for decades by inheritance disputes. The town's strategic position -- controlling the only road through the mountains between Zamora and Galicia -- ensured its importance for centuries. The walled old quarter has been declared a Historic-Artistic Site.
If you stay at any of the accommodation options on the south side of town, retrace your steps to get back to the camino -- it would be easy to confuse the southern road with the northern one.
The camino follows the road north out of town but soon picks up a trail before you reach the N-525. The walk is scenic, and muddy after rain. On several occasions it joins the N-525 but never for very long, so keep an eye open for the exit points. It reaches Terroso (9.7 km) and then makes a large loop to the north before descending into Requejo de Sanabria.
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