Castrojeriz

Castrojeriz is deceptively long — the camino follows the Calle Oriente through a town that seems to go on forever. Don't rush it. Three churches, a ruined castle, and a tunnel system connecting the cellars beneath the main street all reward a slower pace.

The Colegiata de Santa María del Manzano has a 13th-century Black Madonna. The Iglesia de Santo Domingo houses a tapestry museum. The Iglesia de San Juan, at the far end, has a beautiful cloister. All three are worth seeing.

The castle ruins on the hilltop above town provide the best view of the meseta you'll get from any direction — the climb is short but steep. From the top you can see the route ahead stretching west toward the Alto de Mostelares and, on a clear day, well into Palencia.

Several albergues, bars, and restaurants line the main street. A couple of small shops handle provisions. The town has more character than its size suggests — the length of the Calle Oriente and the quality of its buildings speak to medieval prosperity that the surrounding farmland no longer supports.