Estella

Estella (Lizarra in Basque) has more historical architecture per square meter than most cities twice its size. The camino enters along the west bank of the Río Ega, but to see the best of the town you'll need to cross the river.

The two buildings not to miss are the Palacio de los Reyes de Navarra — a rare example of Romanesque civic architecture, with a carved capital depicting Roland's battle with the Saracen giant Ferragut — and the Iglesia de San Pedro de la Rúa, whose cloister is one of the finest Romanesque cloisters in Navarra. Two of its four galleries were destroyed when the castle above was demolished in the 16th century, but what remains is exceptional.

Other churches worth seeking out include the Iglesia del Santo Sepulcro (closed since 1881 but with a magnificent Gothic doorway), the Iglesia de San Miguel with its Romanesque tympanum, and the Basílica del Puy at the top of town. The climb to the Basílica is rewarded with views over the entire valley.

The old quarter is compact and pleasant for wandering. Several albergues operate on both sides of the river. Bars and restaurants line the streets, and the pintxos are solid. A supermarket and all basic services are available. The tourist office next to the Palacio has maps for walking trails in the surrounding area — useful if you're taking a rest day.