A Fonsagrada
Camino Primitivo
A Fonsagrada is the first town of serious size since crossing into Galicia. It won't make any postcards, but it has everything you need, including a real selection of restaurants. This is Galicia -- try the pulpo a feira (octopus with paprika, olive oil, and salt on heavy bread), washed down with a local white wine. The addition of several albergues here in recent years has led to the closure of the old albergue in Padron, the next town.
A Fonsagrada is one of the largest municipios in Spain by area, a reflection of just how sparsely populated this corner of Galicia remains. The terrain ahead between Padron and O Cadavo is arguably the toughest stretch on the entire Primitivo -- locals call it the rompe piernas, the leg-wrecker. Allow extra time, especially after rain when the forest tracks turn to thick mud.
The camino between Padrón and O Cádavo is arguably the most difficult of the route, and possibly the reason for the nickname the leg wrecker. Allow for extra time, especially after a rain since many of the sections become thick with mud.
The sacred fountain (fons sacrata) that gives the town its name is located behind the Iglesia de Santa Maria de Fonsagrada, on the aptly named Rua do Fonte. The spring and its supposedly curative waters are wrapped in layers of local lore and medieval miracle stories. The fountain predates the town -- pilgrims likely stopped here to drink long before anyone thought to build around it.
The camino exits Fonsagrada along the main road, and shortly after follows a secondary road parallel to it, into Padrón. Beyond Padrón it follows through forested paths off of the road.
Accommodation in A Fonsagrada.
| Albergue de peregrinos Ramón Rodríguez 10€ 42 |
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| Albergue Pensión Cantábrico 15€ 18 |
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| Albergue-Pensión Casa Cuartel 15€ 20 Booking.com |
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| Camping A Fonsagrada |
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