Arzúa

Camino Frances

Camino del Norte

Camino Primitivo

To end of camino
38.5
Altitude
385

Ribadiso da Carretera

2.30

Arzúa

2.30

Pregontoño

Services
ATM
Yes
Bar
Yes
Bus
Yes
Grocery
Yes
Medical Center
Yes
Pharmacy
Yes
Public Pool
Yes

Arzúa is the cheese capital of Galicia. The Queixo de Arzúa-Ulloa has its own Denominación de Orixe, and the tetilla cheese — named for its distinctive breast shape — is everywhere. The tetilla's form was supposedly created by cheesemakers in protest: when the bishop ordered the removal of nude figures from the Pórtico de la Gloria in Santiago, the cheesemakers responded by making their product unmistakably anatomical. The story may be apocryphal, but the cheese is real and excellent.

This is where the Camino del Norte joins the Francés, and the trail gets noticeably busier from here to Santiago. The town is functional and well-serviced: multiple albergues and hotels, bars and restaurants, supermarkets. If everything is full, the polideportivo (sports hall) is sometimes opened for overflow.

The camino leaves Arzúa on a footpath, not the road. From the main square, walk past the church (back to the road) and turn right.

Fiesta

The Festival of Cheese in March is a three-day celebration of the local product — 40 years running. Corpus Christi and Nuestra Señora del Carmen (July 16) are also celebrated.

History

Arzúa has been a waypoint on the pilgrim road since the earliest documented routes. Its position at the junction of the Francés and Norte routes made it a natural gathering point.

The Road

The camino leaves Arzúa along a footpath, NOT the road. If you arrived at the main square, walk past the church (with your back to the road) and turn right onto the side street. The terrain is pleasant, a blend of trails and paved roads through small towns and lots of forests. There are a few steep sections but none of any considerable length.

Comments

Camino de Sant… (not verified)

It has both private rooms with private baths and others with shared services. Luis the owner & hispitalero is extremely kind and you will quickly understand that he is there mostly for the passion of meeting the peregrinos. The simple though impeccable facilities were just finished in April 2022 replacing a factory that was Luis’ long time previous successful business… Don’t miss the opportunity to ask him about it. His history will definitively be part of your Camino.

Camino de Sant… (not verified)

I can only assume that Michael’s description of Arzua as “pleasant” was meant to be ironic. It is essentially one long street with a lot of high speed traffic (with many lumber teucks( hurtling through it. The main square has a pleasant cafe, and the pizza restaurant mentioned by other pilgrims is a great place to eat. However the town itself is not attractive at all.

Camino de Sant… (not verified)

Very smart new pensión on Rua O Convento. Extremely well furnished, lovely big room, comfortable twin beds , huge bathroom with walk-in shower. Excellent towels and sheets.

Dinner, if you’re on half-board, is at Casa Teodora’s restaurant which is rated highly. Breakfast, €6 or included, is served in the small cafeteria with the usual options. A very classy place with WiFi and A/C as well. Recommended

Camino de Sant… (not verified)

There is a brand new Albergeu just few km before Arzúa on Camino del Norte in Casaldoeiro. Albergue is clean with only 12 beds in wooden “boxes” with curtains for privacy. There are two showers and two toilets. Albergue has a large garden. However there is no kitchen for pilgrims only a microwave. On the other hand hospitalero - Cesare - is super friendly and he runs a small restaurant with delicious meals for a reasonable price. In the price per night (15 €) small and basic breakfest is included (coffee, tea, marmalade, biscuits…). Overall strongly recommended.

Camino de Sant…

If you’re itching for a bit of luxury after weeks of walking, yeah, this is the spot. Best steak I’ve had in a long long time. Outrageous quality hospitality, comfortable bed and bedding (pillows that aren’t bricks!), heating was just too good, shower, etc etc. It’s no $6 Albergue.

Camino de Sant…

We stayed at Pension Luis - in a lovely private room in a central location - though a bit more expensive than most places we stayed. The town square in Arzúa is great for people watching, we were just sad to have missed the annual cheese festival the weekend before. Try all the cheese while in town!

Camino de Sant…

The last 3 kilometers are up a long long hill!

Camino de Sant…

I stayed in Arzúa two nights to rest up, and ate both nights at Il Fornaccio. If you’re tired of the typical Spanish fare or want multiple vegetarian options, I definitely recommend this pizza place!

Camino de Sant…

I found this town had quite heavy traffic, lots of trucks driving across town.