Getaria
Camino del Norte
Getaria is built on the narrow strip of land connecting the mainland to Monte San Antón — a hump-backed headland the locals call El Ratón (the mouse) because of its shape. The old town is tiny and can be walked through in minutes, but it packs in an outsized amount of history.
The Iglesia de San Salvador is the first stop. It's a Gothic church built on sloping rock, giving the interior a disorienting tilt. A tunnel bored through the rock beneath the church once served as a defensive passage when the church was part of the town wall.
Two native sons define Getaria's fame. Juan Sebastián Elcano was born here and completed the first circumnavigation of the globe in 1522, finishing the voyage that Magellan started but didn't survive. His statue faces the harbor. Cristóbal Balenciaga, born here in 1895 to a fisherman and a seamstress, became the most influential fashion designer of the 20th century. The Cristóbal Balenciaga Museoa, built around his childhood home, houses over 1,600 pieces — even if fashion isn't your interest, the building is worth seeing.
The harbor still lands fish daily, and Getaria's grilled turbot and anchovies are locally famous. The town sits at the heart of the Getariako Txakolina wine denomination — the vineyards climb the hillsides behind town, and every restaurant pours it freely.
April: San Prudencio on the 27th.May: Antxoa on the 3rd, San Isidro on the 4th, and the Day of the Fisherman on the 5th.June: San Juan on the 23rd and 24th.August: San Salvador on the 6th.November: San Martín on the 11th.
Getaria's relationship with the sea runs deep. The town was a whaling port, a naval base, and a fishing village, sometimes all at once. Elcano's expedition — three years, 60,000 nautical miles, and only 18 survivors of the original 270 crew — remains one of the most remarkable voyages in human history. Carlos V granted him a coat of arms reading Primus circumdedisti me — 'You were the first to encircle me.'
Until the 15th century, Monte San Antón was actually an island. Sediment gradually connected it to the mainland, creating the tombolo on which the old town sits.
If you came into Getaria along the N-634 you will have to climb up to rejoin the camino.If you came into Getaria along the trail you will have to decide whether you want to descend into town (and then return) or whether to keep on walking.The camino passes the Kanpaia Albergue at the highest point in town and continues along country lanes. It passes the Ermita de San Prudenzio (300 meters off the trail, has a fountain but is usually closed) and brings you directly to Askizu.
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