Ribadeo
Camino del Norte
Ribadeo is built on a hillside rising from the estuary, which means everywhere feels uphill. It's the first town in Galicia and it makes a strong first impression.
The Convento de Santa Clara (15th century, 18th-century cloister) anchors the old center. The Torre dos Moreno, a 1910 Casa de Indianos of considerable ambition, dominates the skyline — a restoration project is underway. The Iglesia de Santa María del Campo, in the main square, is the working parish church.
If you're staying at the municipal albergue, the 3.5 km round-trip walk to the Ribadeo lighthouse at Illa Pancha is worthwhile, passing the Castillo de San Damián en route.
The real draw is 14 km west: As Catedrais (the Cathedrals), natural rock formations along the coast that rank among Galicia's top five attractions. The formations are only accessible at low tide — check the tide calendar before committing to a taxi. If you can split one with other pilgrims, don't miss it.
All services available. Note that Galician waymark shells are not oriented toward Santiago the way Asturian ones are — follow arrows, not shells.
The scallop shells in Galicia are not installed with an orientation towards Santiago and having come from Asturias where they are it might be a bit confusing. Just remember to follow the arrow and ignore the shell.
Ribadeo has had an uneven relationship with the camino. Before the bridge, the broad estuary meant a risky crossing. Many pilgrims turned south to cross at Santiago de Abres instead. The modern bridge eliminated the hazard, and since 1987 the southern option has fallen out of favor — though a local movement is working to revive it.
The camino through Ribadeo has been re-routed in recent years and now follows a route down to the waterfront and then back up. Of course, it is still possible to go the old way and avoid the elevation change. If that suits you, turn right at the first big intersection after you pass under the bridge into town. It is the Avenida de Leopoldo Calvo Sotelo and the official camino is across the road to the left. If you turn right you can follow old arrows through town. At the end of town both options rejoin on the Rúa de San Lazaro and before long you are back in the countryside. Such is the case for most of the walking through Galicia; on a few occasions you will walk along the asphalt road but they are quiet country roads. The first of them is the LU-5207 which you will dance around as you enter Vilela.
Accommodation in Ribadeo.
| O Teu Sitio Hostel 25€ Booking.com |
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| Albergue Ribadeo A Ponte 15+€ 28 Booking.com |
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| Albergue Viruxe 12€ 20 |
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| Albergue El Olivo 12€ 13 |
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| Albergue de Ribadeo 10€ 12 |
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