Arzúa

Camino Frances

Camino del Norte

Camino Primitivo

To end of camino
38.5
Altitude
385

Ribadiso da Carretera

2.30

Arzúa

2.30

Pregontoño

Services
ATM
Yes
Bar
Yes
Bus
Yes
Grocery
Yes
Medical Center
Yes
Pharmacy
Yes
Public Pool
Yes

Arzúa is the cheese capital of Galicia. The Queixo de Arzúa-Ulloa has its own Denominación de Orixe, and the tetilla cheese — named for its distinctive breast shape — is everywhere. The tetilla's form was supposedly created by cheesemakers in protest: when the bishop ordered the removal of nude figures from the Pórtico de la Gloria in Santiago, the cheesemakers responded by making their product unmistakably anatomical. The story may be apocryphal, but the cheese is real and excellent.

This is where the Camino del Norte joins the Francés, and the trail gets noticeably busier from here to Santiago. The town is functional and well-serviced: multiple albergues and hotels, bars and restaurants, supermarkets. If everything is full, the polideportivo (sports hall) is sometimes opened for overflow.

The camino leaves Arzúa on a footpath, not the road. From the main square, walk past the church (back to the road) and turn right.

Fiesta

The Festival of Cheese in March is a three-day celebration of the local product — 40 years running. Corpus Christi and Nuestra Señora del Carmen (July 16) are also celebrated.

History

Arzúa has been a waypoint on the pilgrim road since the earliest documented routes. Its position at the junction of the Francés and Norte routes made it a natural gathering point.

The Road

The camino leaves Arzúa along a footpath, NOT the road. If you arrived at the main square, walk past the church (with your back to the road) and turn right onto the side street. The terrain is pleasant, a blend of trails and paved roads through small towns and lots of forests. There are a few steep sections but none of any considerable length.

Comments

Camino de Sant…

I stayed in Arzúa two nights to rest up, and ate both nights at Il Fornaccio. If you’re tired of the typical Spanish fare or want multiple vegetarian options, I definitely recommend this pizza place!

Camino de Sant…

I found this town had quite heavy traffic, lots of trucks driving across town.