Castilla y León / León

The crossing into the province of León comes without ceremony — you cross the bridge over the Río Valderaduey and that's it. But the change matters. León was the heart of the old kingdom that drove the Reconquista, and the province retains a distinct identity within Castilla y León.

The meseta begins to wind down ahead. The flat wheat plains will continue for a while, but the terrain gradually becomes more varied as you approach the city of León. The mountains — the Cantabrian range and the gateway to Galicia — become visible from the higher points on clear days.

León's culinary identity is distinct from Burgos and Palencia: cecina (air-dried beef), botillo (a hearty smoked meat dish from the Bierzo), and the wines of the Bierzo region (Mencía grape) appear on menus as you move west. The tapas culture in the city of León rivals any in Spain.