The Camino de Invierno

The bridge over the river at Quereño marks your arrival in Galicia — specifically in the province of Ourense. The landscape changes noticeably: the dry Bierzo gives way to the green, river-carved valleys of the Río Sil. The microclimate along the river is mild and sunny, which is exactly why this route was favored in winter — pilgrims could avoid the snow and ice of the mountains at O Cebreiro.

Quereño is the first village in Galicia. It's a curious place with an abundance of arrows in various colors pointing in different directions — some left over from construction work. Don't overthink it; the camino route becomes clear once you're through town.

No notable services.

Pumares is a tiny hamlet with well-cared-for houses and what seems like dozens of cats. There's a natural spring fountain with cold, tasty water. No services.

Between Pumares and Sobradelo, you'll pass through Nogueiras, an abandoned village now mostly in ruins. Some welcoming signs and a statue of Mary have been placed there.

Nogueiras is an abandoned village along the railway track — mostly ruins now. The camino passes through on the way between Pumares and Sobradelo. It's atmospheric in a melancholy way, a reminder of the rural depopulation that has hollowed out so many Galician villages.

Sobradelo is built on a steep hill and is the first village with real services since entering Galicia. It has pharmacies, shops, a train station, bars, banks, a health center, and a swimming pool.

The Centro Social Pontenova has a bar open to the public with a nice eating area out back and a good menú del día. On the 10th of each month (market day), the centro serves a special pulpo meal.

Bar Mar is just down the road — the owner, Manuel Ángel Martínez Ramos (tel. 988 335 106), offers lodging for pilgrims at about 8 euros for 12 beds in 4 rooms. Reviews are mixed.

If you walk down to the river, a 16th-century seven-arched bridge crosses the Río Sil. The Restaurante Museo on the other side has excellent food and a fine view of the bridge.

Éntoma is a pretty hamlet with a striking metal sculpture made from agricultural hoes bidding pilgrims a Buen Camino. There's a beautiful old bridge, perfect for a rest stop. Bar Martillo has a terrace (reportedly opens at noon, closed Mondays).

O Barco de Valdeorras has all the services you could want, and the local wine is remarkably good. It's a long, narrow town strung out along the Río Sil, with plenty of hostals and pensiones.

O Barco is the center of the Valdeorras DO wine region. The local Mencía (red) and Godello (white) wines are among the best values in Galicia — every bar in town pours them proudly at bargain prices. Sample both.

Recommended places to eat: Casa Galaica on Avenida Eulogio Fernández has a great menú. Casa Paradelo (Rúa Xirimil, back street near the station) has a nice garden. Asador Viloira is a pensión and restaurant across the first pedestrian bridge. Bar San Roque is reported as very pilgrim-friendly.

The riverside park is the town's social hub — in summer, kids go tubing through a small whitewater section, and families congregate around the cafés and playgrounds. If you want to unwind, this is the place.

This route was the original camino before the riverside route was marked. Take it only if you plan to stay at the albergue in Xagoaza, which is highly recommended by many pilgrims.

From O Barco, make your way to the railroad underpass at the end of Calle Eulogio Fernández. At the roundabout past the Repsol station, turn left onto Rúa Estrada. At the modern Iglesia de San Tirso, turn right, go through a narrow tunnel, and watch for a marker pointing up to Xagoaza. Pay attention — arrows for the turn are scarce.

Albergue Xagoaza has two rooms with 5 bunks each, a large dining room with fireplace, two PCs and wifi, a fully furnished kitchen, clean bathrooms, and outside space. The hospitalera may provide meals, but bring food from O Barco just in case.

Arcos is a small village where you can see the Hotel Paladium complex on the hill above. Before Vilamartín, the Pensión Restaurante A Lastra is on the highway (tel. 988 300 232) — not directly on the camino but not far.

Vilamartín de Valdeorras has restaurants, hostals, and a municipal albergue along the river — the second-to-last building on the Sil waterfront, near a small football field and swimming pool. It can be hard to find as there are no signs from the camino side.

Hostal-Restaurante Marbella (Calle Cervantes 32, tel. 988 300 025) has reported pilgrim prices around 15 euros. Hostal Restaurante Pancho y Pilar (tel. 988 300 073) is on the main street. Cafetería El Castillo (50 m off camino, under the road bridge) has a nice covered terrace.

To reach the town center, turn right at the little bridge underpass at the entrance.

A Rúa de Valdeorras has all services — restaurants, markets, wineries, accommodation, and a tourist office with sello, often staffed by local Camino Amigos group members. Stock up here for the next day's walk.

The municipal polideportivo in the riverside Agullón park is currently available for pilgrims. It's 1 km from the town hall — on weekdays, go directly between 3 and 10 pm; on weekends, call the local police at 696 91 75 94. Bar O Refuxio next door is recommended for its BBQ.

Hotel and restaurant O Pillabán (Praza Enriqueta Casanova 11, tel. 988 311 416 / WhatsApp 627 89 10 04) is right on the camino near the church. Rooms for pilgrims are 20 euros, and the food is highly rated.

Casa Rural Pacio do Sil (Calle Xestal 33) is outside the main town — a bit pricey but well worth it. For food, Bar Taxi, Restaurante A Lareira, and Bar Pepa near the ayuntamiento are all recommended. On Sundays and on the 7th of each month, Amalia sets up her pulpo stall outside Bar Bravo.

Alvaredos is a small town just beyond the provincial border between Ourense and Lugo. This is where the Ribeira Sacra — the Holy River Bank region — begins. The name may derive from the sacred oaks that were once abundant here, venerated by Celtic tribes.

Keep a sharp lookout for waymarks — they lead back to the LU-933. About 2 km beyond Alvaredos, a medieval cart track begins a long switchback ascent and descent through forests and vineyards to the valley bottom, where an arroyo meets the railway track and the Río Sil.

Montefurado is a testament to glories long past. Twenty people live here now, but the monumental 18th-century Iglesia de San Miguel was built for hundreds. The village was once a crossroads for carters carrying ore, honey, wine, and vines throughout Spain.

Further along the river valley, you can see evidence of 2nd-century Roman ingenuity: the miners shifted the entire course of the Río Sil in their search for gold, blasting a hole through the riverside rock face. The village is built atop a maze of ancient tunnels, now used for storing wine and cheese.

There's a fountain next to the church and a Centro Social nearby where you may be able to get a drink. Montefurado has a train station with one morning train to A Rúa and one late-afternoon return.

Hermidón is a tiny hamlet between Montefurado and Bendilló. No services. The camino passes through on forest paths above the Río Sil. The landscape is increasingly beautiful — wooded valleys, terraced hillsides, and the constant sound of water.

The Capela das Farrapas is a small roadside chapel near the entrance to Bendilló. It sits alongside a community olive press. No services — this is a landmark on the trail rather than a settlement.

Bendilló is a small village with two fountains — one at the entrance and another in front of the church. No other services. The village is still 1.5 km from the camino entrance to the church.

This waypoint marks the steep descent from the Bendilló area toward the N-120 highway. The path drops through forest to the valley floor. After reaching the highway, the camino continues to Soldón.

Soldón sits at the river's edge. A riverside café or chiringüito under the elevated highway has seasonal hours — in high season it's open into the night, making it a great spot for a snack, cold drink, and a swim.

The tourist apartments El Molino de Soldón at the river's edge now offer pilgrim lodging — 40 euros for two (same for one), with towels, sheets, and breakfast. Full kitchen available. Additional pilgrims 15 euros. Tel. 679 455 126. With one day's notice, they'll do grocery shopping for you. The village is essentially deserted, so it may not suit everyone.

Sequeiros is a small hamlet between Soldón and Quiroga. No services. The castle of Torrenovas is nearby — a 14th-century fortification built by the Knights Hospitaller that once served as a strategic lookout over the Río Sil and housed pilgrim hospitals.

Novais is a tiny hamlet on the descent toward Quiroga. No services. The camino passes through on quiet paths and lanes between Sequeiros and Caspedro.

Caspedro is a small hamlet on the final approach to Quiroga. No services. A turn-off here leads to the monumental complex of Quiroga's pilgrim hospital — the Romanesque church of San Salvador and associated 16th-century buildings. The detour appears to be 1-2 km from the camino.

In Caspedro, a turn-off leads to the monumental complex of Quiroga's pilgrim hospital. The old pilgrimage path went to the important Romanesque Iglesia de San Salvador. Other monuments at the site include the Casa de los Caballeros (House of the Knights), a 16th-century manor house, and the Torre Casa Hospital, also from the 16th century. The detour is short and worth it if you have the time.

Quiroga sits in a beautiful valley of vineyards and orchards, and it has all services. It's the most substantial town between A Rúa and Monforte de Lemos.

Restaurante Aroza, off the main street near the Plaza Mayor, gets consistently high praise — the menú del día with good wine included is a bargain, and the tapas are excellent. Closed Sunday evenings. Panadería Marisa opposite the albergue opens at 8am for breakfast.

Your choice for the next stage is either A Pobra do Brollón (23 km) or the full stretch to Monforte de Lemos (35 km).

Espandariz is a small hamlet on the road between Quiroga and Noceda. No services. The camino passes through after leaving Quiroga and following the LU-933 along the river valley.

If you crossed the bridge to visit San Clodio (which has a bar that opens early and the Quiroga train station), you'll rejoin the main route here.

Noceda is a tiny hamlet on the hillside above the Río Sil valley. No services. The camino ascends through Noceda before continuing into forested highlands.

The views back over the river valley from the ascent are worth a pause.

The Capela dos Remedios sits at the intersection of several dirt roads in the forest. It's a quiet spot with no services — just the chapel and a junction. The PR-G141 hiking trail diverges here to the left; the camino continues straight.

Carballo de Lor is a small hamlet with a fountain — one of only two reliable water sources between Quiroga and A Pobra do Brollón. No other services. Fill up here.

Barxa do Lor (also marked as A Ponte on some maps) is a small village at the bridge over the Río Lor. A sign in A Ponte illustrates the route onward to Monforte. No services.

Castroncelos is a small hamlet with a fountain — the second of two water sources between Quiroga and A Pobra do Brollón. No other services. The village sits on the approach to A Pobra.

A Pobra do Brollón is the only town with real services between Quiroga and Monforte de Lemos. If you don't want to walk the full 35 km from Quiroga to Monforte, this is the logical stopping point at roughly the midway mark.

Hostal As Vilas has closed, but there are alternatives. The polideportivo may be available for pilgrims. In Salcedo, about 3.5 km off the camino, several casas rurales and a hotel operate under one management (tel. 982 430 501 / 619 813 834). The owner is happy to pick up and drop off pilgrims at no charge. You can reach Salcedo via a marked trail from Barxa do Lor or a turn-off near Castroncelos.

The town has built a small swimming area by damming the river — it's the local gathering spot in summer, and even if you don't swim, it's worth a look.

Café Bar Restaurante Avenida, right on the camino, is recommended.

Cereixa is a small hamlet between A Pobra do Brollón and Monforte. There's a bar a short distance off the camino to your left, near the church.

Reigada is the last hamlet before Monforte de Lemos. No services. From here, the camino descends into the city on agricultural roads and tracks.

Monforte de Lemos is the largest town on the Invierno between Ponferrada and Santiago, and it has all services. It's an elegant place, built around the confluence of the Río Cabe and a hilltop monastery complex that dominates the skyline.

The Colegio Nuestra Señora de la Antigua (known locally as the Colegio de los Escolapios) is the main attraction — an austere Renaissance monastery that now houses a school. Tours of the rest of the complex are 3 euros, at noon and 4 pm Tuesday through Saturday. The small art gallery has two paintings by El Greco, and the dome of the church is breathtaking after days of wide-open sky. The railway museum (MUFERGA) is also worth a visit. The tourist office is closed on Mondays.

For accommodation, there are many options. Hostal Duquesa (Duquesa de Alba 50, tel. 982 403 467) has been recommended — 17 euros for a room with bath. Hotel Condes de Lemos (Praza da Estación 2, tel. 982 400 319) is further from the center. Hostal Rúa (Roberto Baamonde 30), Hotel El Castillo (Huertas 36, tel. 982 402 150), and Hotel Terra Gallega (Chantada 218, tel. 982 405 090) are also options. The municipal sports hall may be available for pilgrims (floor space and showers only, tel. 982 402 501).

For food, Restaurante Cardenal on the main pedestrian street gets high marks. O Grelo, up on the hill near the parador, serves excellent food (not cheap). Al Portal and Restaurante Polar in the center are recommended. Café Chokolat on Rúa do Comercio opens early for breakfast.

There's a laundromat on Rúa Chantada (the road over the Puente Romano), just before the Lidl and Gadis supermarkets, opposite the Mapfre insurance offices at the traffic lights.

A Vide is a small hamlet on the road out of Monforte. No services. The asphalt stretch from Monforte ends here as the camino begins moving into the rural heartland of the Ribeira Sacra.

Regueiro de Moreda is a tiny hamlet on the road between A Vide and A Broza. No services. The camino passes through on the asphalt road heading toward the Pazo O Reguengo.

A Broza is a small hamlet near the Pazo O Reguengo, a noble stone estate complex that serves as a landmark on this stretch. No services.

Piñeiro has a fountain with sweet, cold water — the best rest and refill spot between Monforte and Chantada. There's space for a picnic. No other services.

If you plan to stay at the highly recommended La Rectoral de Castillón casa rural, phone Rosa (the proprietor) from here to arrange a pickup. The inn is nearby but walking directions are unclear. She'll return you to the fountain the next morning.

O Camiño Grande is a crossroads hamlet in the concello of O Saviñao. The main draw is the Casa Rural Torre Vilariño, 400 m off the camino to the left at the crossroads — very highly recommended, with pilgrim-friendly staff. Rooms are 20 euros per person; swimming pool; menú del día 15 euros, pilgrim menú 10 euros. The restaurant is closed Wednesdays except in summer. Tel. 982 452 260, or WhatsApp Susana at 640 104 627.

From Torre Vilariño, there's a 6 km circular walk with views of the bends in the Río Miño, passing the Adegas Moure winery and the Igrexa Monacal de San Martiño da Coba perched high above the river. The mirador at Cabodomundo has grown over, but the views near the winery are spectacular.

A Barxa is one of the small hamlets strung along the quiet LU-P-5807 between O Camiño Grande and Diomondi. No services.

Fión is a small hamlet on the LU-P-5807 between O Camiño Grande and Diomondi. No services. The road through here has virtually no traffic.

Sobrado is one of several small hamlets along the quiet road between O Camiño Grande and Diomondi. No services. Don't confuse this with Sobradelo, the larger village back near O Barco de Valdeorras.

Cirdeiro (also written O Cerdeiro) is a small hamlet on the road between O Camiño Grande and Diomondi. No services.

Montecelo is the last hamlet before Diomondi. No services. You've been in the parroquia of Diomondi for about 2 km by this point — the church is just ahead.

Diomondi's treasure is its Romanesque church, San Pelagio de Diomondi — an architectural highlight of the entire Camino de Invierno. The church is easy to find: when you reach the modern bench and shelter where the camino begins its descent, stay on the road a few meters further.

Look for the thousand-year-old cow heads carved above the side doors — a sweet nod to the animals that have always worked these fields. The episcopal palace attached to the church has been restored after years of scaffolding. A new albergue has opened in Diomondi.

There's also the option of detouring to Escairón (about 4 km from the crossroads at O Camiño Grande) to split the Monforte-to-Chantada stage. In Escairón, the 2-star Hotel O Ruso is recommended (37 euros for room, dinner, and breakfast, tel. 982 452 134). Good tapas bars include O Noso Lar, El Candíl, and Avenida. Sello available at the Casa do Concello and the hotel. From Escairón, continue on the LU-617 and turn left by the cheese factory onto the LU-P-5806 — a sign indicates 4 km to Diomondi church, where you rejoin the camino.

Belasar sits at the bottom of the dramatic descent from Diomondi, at the bridge over the Río Miño. Turn right at the bottom. A hundred meters past the bridge, the marina-bar Abacería O Batuxo serves food and drinks — it's had some sporadic closings, so don't count on it.

Boat tours stop here periodically. A ride up and down this terraced river valley will ease your feet and show you a stretch of Ribeira Sacra that few pilgrims ever see.

San Pedro de Líncora is a small hamlet with a nice shaded rest area near the church. No other services.

Chantada's arcaded streets are lined with elegant portals and mansions from the 15th and 16th centuries. It has all basic services and is the natural stopping point between Monforte and Lalín.

When you cross the bridge into town, Piolindo is the first bar on the right — good food, and the manager Rachel is extremely helpful with directions and accommodation. Bar do Río is next, on the left, with a nice terrace overlooking the river. Pulpería Os Pendellos (Rúa de Benigno Ledo 13) is fantastic for pulpo, but expect crowds. Bar as Amizades on Juan XXIII has a 9-euro menú. Pizzería Agocho, near the Hotel Mogay and Hostal Yoel, is also recommended. Café Amedeo and Panadería Ascención (near Hotel Mogay) are good for breakfast.

Hotel Gamallo (García Arias 7, tel. 982 440 833) is one option. There's a laundromat in the same building as Pensión Yoel — 3 euros with card, 3.50 euros cash.

The modern church in the center is pilgrim-friendly and offers a sello. The Casa de Cultura next door also has a sello and free wifi.

Centulle is a small hamlet just outside Chantada on the LU-1809. No services. The camino passes through on its way toward the Monte Faro highlands. Look for the petos de ánimas — medieval crossroads shrines with striking sculpted images of souls in purgatory — along this stretch.

Boán is a small hamlet between Chantada and Penasillás. No services. The camino passes through after leaving the service road of the main highway.

Lucenza is a small hamlet between Chantada and Penasillás. No services. The camino goes straight through — before the end of the hamlet, take the path to the right.

Penasillás is a hamlet of 18 people and at least as many dogs (none menacing). There's another peto de ánimas here, and — more importantly — a fountain of cold spring water. Fill up for the climb to Monte Faro.

Bar Cantina O Peto opens around 10 am officially, though pilgrims have found it open as early as 9. It has a sello. If it's closed, pilgrims have reported that knocking on the door of the house to the right brings the friendly owner.

This alternative avoids the full ascent to Monte Faro. From Penasillás, a series of secondary roads takes you through Mouricios, Ferreiros, Mundín, and San Vicente, with about 180 m of ascent compared to 420 m on the main camino. You rejoin the camino at the intersection of the PO-533 and CG-2.1.

Most pilgrims who've done the main route say the ascent isn't bad at all and the views from Monte Faro are worth it. The long slog through the windmill farm isn't everyone's cup of tea, however.

The Ermita de Nosa Señora do Monte do Faro sits atop this mountain, considered the geographical center of Galicia. On a clear day, all four Galician provinces are visible from the summit — though you're unlikely to be able to tell which is which.

The detour to the top is recommended for the views alone. If you want to skip it entirely, you can take a paved road from Penasillás (see the alternate route description).

Vilanova is a small hamlet on the camino's descent from the Monte Faro windmill farm. No services.

San Xoán de Camba is a hamlet near the Pazo de Camba, an old stone estate that's usually closed. The camino passes the estate — two pilgrims once happened upon it during preparations for a baptism (the first in 25 years) and were treated to a tour. After the estate, the camino crosses a field to the LU-P-1809.

A Ermida is a small hamlet between the Pazo de Camba and A Feira. No services. The camino passes through on quiet lanes.

A Feira has Bar O Recanto, which serves a good menú del día. The camino arrows take you off the road before entering the hamlet, but if you stay on the road you'll reach the bar and the adjacent hamlet of Leboro. Continuing on the LU-P-1809 from here leads to the Mesón Lamazares and eventually into Rodeiro.

Mouriz is a small hamlet between A Feira and Rodeiro. No services.

Rodeiro is a small town with basic services. Cross the river and you'll emerge in the square with the Casa do Concello (town hall — sello available, but only open till 2 pm). The camino leaves to the right of the town hall, not up the hill through the center. Look for the first arrows near the monument to the wheel in the roundabout.

The Romanesque church dates to the 12th century. Bar Desito is recommended for its tortilla española.

Penerbosa is a tiny hamlet on the dirt paths west of Rodeiro. No services. The camino passes through on its way over the wide valley of stone quarries and trout streams.

A Penela is a small hamlet between Rodeiro and Lalín. Notable for an enormous granite monument a local farmer has dedicated to former King Juan Carlos. No services.

A Eirexe is a small hamlet where the camino crosses a 12th-century bridge. The village sits beneath a large strip mine. No services.

Laxas is a small hamlet on the dirt roads between A Eirexe and Palmaz. No services.

Palmaz is the last hamlet before reaching Lalín. No services. The camino arrives here after about 19 km of walking from Rodeiro and joins the PO-933 for the final stretch into Lalín de Arriba.

Lalín has all services and a lively center where something always seems to be happening — weekend artisan markets, trotting competitions, food festivals. A life-size bronze hog on the main street pays tribute to the town's culinary identity.

Lalín is famous for its cocido — a massive dish of greens, potatoes, garbanzos, broth, and assorted stewed pork that arrives in a steaming heap. Casa Mouriño, across from the Hotel el Palacio, is the place to try it. Other recommended restaurants include Cabanas (Rúa Pintor Laxeiro 3), Restaurante San Martín II (Rúa C, 3), and Bakery Bar Dulces Encantados near the main church. Pizzería Casa do Gato (Rúa Ramón Aller 5) is owned by the president of the local Amigos del Camino and is very pilgrim-friendly, with a sello.

The Ethnographic Museum is worth a visit (Tuesday through Sunday, 10-2 and 4-7 pm).

For accommodation: Hotel Restaurante el Palacio (Calle Matemático Rodríguez 10, tel. 986 780 000) is very close to the camino — pilgrim deal of 35 euros for room, dinner, and breakfast, early breakfasts no problem. Hostal As Vilas (Calle Arenal 4, tel. 986 780 140), Hostal Mouriño (tel. 986 780 073), and Hostal Naval do Espinal (tel. 986 787 604) are other options. Hotel Camino de Santiago (tel. 986 794 078) is 4 km out of town along the trail.

Bergazos is the industrial-park area between Lalín and A Laxe. No services of interest to pilgrims.

A Laxe is a small crossroads with an outsized importance for pilgrims. This is where the Camino de Invierno joins the Camino Sanabrés, so expect to see new faces and a bump in pilgrim traffic from here to Santiago. The Xunta albergue (30 beds, 10 euros) is the meeting point for walkers arriving from both routes.

There's a bar a bit further along the main road with meals. Buses to Santiago from Ourense also stop here -- useful to know if weather or injury forces a change of plans.

Shortly after leaving A Laxe, you'll pass the Pazo de Bendoiro, a restored manor house with spa treatments and a swimming pool. It's beautiful but pricey.

Donsión is a small hamlet between A Laxe and Taboada. No services. The camino passes through on wooded paths.

Prado is a small hamlet on the approach to Taboada. No services.

The Romanesque Igrexa de Taboada is a short detour across the highway. The carving of Samson wrestling the lion over the doorway is particularly fine. Volunteers keep the church open for pilgrims between 8:30 and 15:00, but it's closed on Tuesdays.

The Romanesque church at Taboada is a small architectural gem, with a carving of Samson over the main doorway. You have to cross the busy highway to reach it — it's just a stone's throw from the camino but on the other side of the road.

Volunteers keep the church open for pilgrim visits from 8:30 to 15:10, closed Tuesdays.

Transfontao is a small hamlet between Taboada and Silleda. No services.

Silleda is the commercial center of the Deza region and the largest town you'll pass through between Ourense and Santiago. It has all services: grocery stores, pharmacy, banks, bars, and restaurants. It's a working market town rather than a tourist destination, but that's precisely its value to pilgrims -- you can get things done here.

The Feira Internacional de Galicia, Spain's largest agricultural exhibition center, is based in Silleda. The weekly market and the various fairs throughout the year give the town a commercial energy that the smaller hamlets lack.

A recommended stop is Bar Gerardo, just before entering town. On the main street, Bar Toxa occasionally sets up a pulpo boiler outside the front door and offers pulpo with Ribeira Sacra wine -- when you see the setup, don't walk past.

One word of caution: the pharmacy here has a reputation for marking up prices for foreign pilgrims. Shop accordingly.

Bandeira is a good-sized town with plenty of food options and a comfortable feel. Bar Arume, up the hill on a side street soon after you enter town, serves good food with warm company -- the sandwich vegetal comes recommended. Bar Plazoleta, just over the road from the Hostal Conde Rey in a small square, is also a reliable stop.

The Monasterio de San Lourenzo de Carboeiro is a worthwhile detour from near here. Founded in the 10th century by the Counts of Deza, it's a transitional Romanesque masterpiece influenced by the Compostela school of Mestre Mateo. It was nearly lost to ruin before restoration work in the late 20th century. The setting -- on the banks of the Río Deza, isolated in woodland -- is part of the appeal.

A small village with a privately run albergue, Casa Leiras 1866, directly on the camino. A young Italian couple, Cristina and Andrea, renovated a house to open it. A 300-meter detour down to the N-525 highway takes you to the bar/restaurant El Emigrante.

A small hamlet with a hermitage, the Ermita de las Angustias. There's a bar here for a quick stop before the descent to the Río Ulla and Ponte Ulla.

Ponte Ulla marks the crossing of the Río Ulla and the boundary between the provinces of Pontevedra and A Coruña. It's also where the Camino de Invierno walkers, who joined at A Laxe, continue alongside you on the final approach to Santiago.

The town has practical value: a Día grocery store on the way out (stock up if you're heading to the albergue in Outeiro), and an excellent panadería right on the camino in the blocks after you cross the bridge. The Romanesque church in town is dedicated to Mary Magdalene and is worth a quick look.

The bridge itself is the town's reason for being. The old stone bridge over the Ulla has been a crossing point for centuries, and you can feel the weight of all that foot traffic as you walk across. The distinctive railway viaduct of Gundián, dating from the 1930s, is visible from town -- about 170 meters long, it was built as part of a rail line from Pico Sacro.

The albergue here is a convenient last stop before the final push to Santiago. A bar delivers meals. Your best bet is probably to bring food up from the Día supermarket in Ponte Ulla and self-cater.

Good lunch specials at Restaurante Vía de la Plata along the carretera. This is your last chance for a proper sit-down meal before Santiago.

A Susana has a bar and a pharmacy — one of the last chances to stock up before Santiago.

Aldrei is a small hamlet between A Susana and Santa Lucía. No services.

Santa Lucía has a bar. It's the last hamlet with any services before the camino enters the outskirts of Santiago de Compostela.

Welcome to Santiago. There are a tremendous number of things to see and do in Santiago de Compostela. You're encouraged to stay for at least one full day extra to explore the web of streets, all of which seem to bring you back to the Cathedral.

Your pilgrim business likely starts in front of the Cathedral, at kilometer zero. A shell and plaque mark the spot in the center of Plaza Obradoiro.

If you're interested in receiving your Compostela, the certificate of completion, you'll need to visit the Pilgrim's Office. To get there from Plaza Obradoiro, face the Parador (the hotel on your left if you're facing the Cathedral) and look for the road that goes downhill to the left. Halfway down you pass the public restroom, and at the next street turn right. The office is at the end of that road.

The Cathedral is the single largest attraction in Santiago and for good reason. Both inside and out it presents countless treasures. The best time to visit is early in the morning before the crowds arrive, when paying a visit to the crypt and embracing the bust of Santiago can be done quietly.

The Cathedral - Plaza by Plaza

1. Plaza de Inmaculada (Azabache): As you enter the city, the first part of the Cathedral you pass is the Puerta de la Azabachería, facing the Monasterio de San Martín Piñario.

2. Obradoiro: From Azabache you pass under the Palace of the Bishop, adjoined to the Cathedral. The stairway leads to Plaza Obradoiro and kilometer zero. In the center is the last scallop shell, and you'll likely find pilgrims taking their shoes off for a photo. The Obradoiro facade is the most majestic of the Cathedral -- an 18th-century baroque design with massive glass panels that illuminate the Pórtico de la Gloria behind it. That Pórtico was the original front of the church, designed by Maestro Mateo six hundred years before the new facade.

3. Plaza Platerías: The Puerta de las Platerías is named for the silver craft still practiced in the shops below. Some of the stonework is replacement carvings -- the originals were damaged and moved to the Cathedral Museum, and unfortunately the original composition was forgotten, leaving a somewhat nonsensical layout. The Platerías fountain at the base of the stairs is the usual pilgrim meeting point, commonly called the horse fountain.

4. Plaza de Quintana: The large Plaza de Quintana holds the Puerta de Perdón. The Holy Door sits behind this facade. The carvings depict 24 Saints and prophets.

The botafumeiro, quite possibly the largest thurible in the Catholic Church, is swung across the transept by a group called the tiraboleiros. It has only come loose twice, and never in modern times. Check at the pilgrim's office for the current swinging schedule.

The Monasterio de San Martín Piñario is enormous -- three cloisters -- and you're almost always standing next to it on the north side of the Cathedral. The facade of the church descends rather than ascends to the entrance, because the Archbishop decreed no building should exceed the Cathedral in height. The architects didn't compromise on scale; they simply started lower.

San Fiz de Solovio is tiny compared to the Cathedral, but it's the oldest building site in Santiago. Find it near the Mercado de Abastos. San Pelayo, the hermit who rediscovered the bones of Santiago, was praying here when the lights called him. The current church isn't original, but excavations have revealed 6th-century foundations.

The Mercado de Abastos is a great place to wander for lunch. The architecture is strictly utilitarian and deeply Galician. The current buildings date from the 1940s but replace structures that stood for three hundred years. Many vendors are third, fourth, or fifth generation.

Alameda Park was once stratified by social class -- different paths for different stations. Now it's democratic and lovely. A Ferris wheel appears in summer, an ice rink in winter, and a massive eucalyptus tree overlooks the Cathedral year-round.

The Hidden Pilgrim hides in the shadows of the Plaza Quintana. He's only visible at night and might take a while to discover.