Mesquita is a small village being revitalized in part because of the camino. Its population had dropped to 16 before a development project brought a four-bed albergue, a restaurant, and several refurbished rental homes. Staying here is a great way to experience life in a tiny Alentejo village and to support the local economy.
The albergue can be booked on Booking.com, but to help the village avoid paying fees, consider calling Cesar directly on +351 964 879 133 (he speaks English). Eating at the restaurant requires pre-booking. An alternative is to self-cater at the albergue, which has basic cooking facilities. The restaurant also sells limited supplies including pasta and canned beans.
Leaving Mesquita, the camino follows a paved road for about 4 km. A shortcut leaves the road and avoids the village of Vicentes, while arrows continue on the road and pass through Vicentes — the two paths rejoin afterward.
Vicentes is a small village on the road between Mesquita and Lombardos. Public bathroom available. No other services.
Roncao do Meio is a tiny hamlet between Vicentes and Lombardos. No services. The landscape is classic deep Alentejo — open and dry with scattered holm oaks.
Roncao de Cima is another tiny hamlet on the approach to Lombardos. No services.
Lombardos is a small village where the route situation can be confusing — check with Cesar in Mesquita for the latest information before setting out.
There are several route options after Lombardos. The arrows follow a long circular path that was marked before permission was granted to traverse private property on a more direct path. However, the direct path requires crossing a tricky dam bridge that's only about a foot wide, with no handrails, vegetation obstacles, and a potential fall of a few meters. If that doesn't sound appealing, take the longer way or enquire about a possible third route.
Check with Cesar in Mesquita for the latest route information. The official arrows follow a long circular path. A more direct path exists through private property but involves a narrow, unrailed dam bridge crossing. Ask locally before deciding.
Mertola is a wonderful place with vestiges of the late Roman, Visigothic, Muslim, and Reconquest eras. The castle, church, and archaeological site form the main historical focus and can be explored in an hour or two. All three are closed on Sundays and Mondays.
The castle was built as the headquarters for the Portuguese branch of the Order of Santiago in 1292, on top of earlier Muslim fortifications. The 27-meter-high keep contains a small museum and is the most impressive part. In the altar of the church, the mihrab from the building's previous incarnation as a mosque is the only known surviving remnant of a medieval mosque in Portugal. The museum underneath contains fragments of a paleo-Christian church that predates the mosque. The archaeological site consists of ruins from early medieval and Muslim residential areas, with 5th-6th century mosaics of Byzantine inspiration as the most notable finds.
Casa do Funil is a good budget accommodation option in the center of Mertola, with a rooftop terrace and good views. If you're lucky, one of the owners, Rui, will use his urban-sketching skills to fashion a unique stamp in your pilgrim passport.
Mertola has basic services — supermarkets, cafes, a pharmacy, and accommodation.
There are no stores between Mertola and Cabeca Gorda, so stock up on provisions here.
Corte Gafo de Cima is a tiny hamlet north of Mertola on the way into the deep Alentejo. No services. The camino passes through on quiet roads through cork oak landscape.
Concealed in the village of Mosteiro is an unexpected treasure: one of the oldest churches in Portugal. It dates from late Roman times, having been converted from a secular building to a family church. Apart from a modern ceiling, the core of the original interior remains.
To visit the church, call Dona Antonia the day before on +351 962 840 066. If she can't be there when you arrive, she'll leave the keys at the bar/reception center. The reception center can also arrange accommodation, but Amendoeira da Serra, 3 km further on, is the more popular overnight stop.
This simple village has a Cultural and Recreation Centre that provides pilgrims with food and shelter. Call Dona Maria at the center a day ahead on +351 286 998 011 to reserve accommodation — either a private room or a dormitory. The center doubles as a cafe/restaurant, and Dona Maria will cook dinner for a reasonable price.
Accommodation in Amendoeirra da Serra.
Vale de Russins has a tavern for drinks but no store despite the sign at the village entrance claiming there is one. The tavern sells bread made in the village's communal wood-fired oven, though it may be a day or two old.
Cabeca Gorda is a small village on the approach to Beja. For accommodation, call Ze Antonio in advance on +351 963 539 511. He rents an entire small apartment at Avenida Alonso Gomes 43 in the northern part of the village. This can also be arranged through the junta de freguesia in the center of town if necessary.
Beja is one of the most attractive towns in the Alentejo and can be explored in an afternoon, especially after a short stage from Cabeca Gorda. The 13th-14th century castle with its tall keep towers over the town and is the main draw. There's a Visigothic Museum inside the church of Santo Amaro next to the castle, though opening hours are sporadic. The Regional Museum of Beja, housed in a beautiful former convent, also merits a visit.
Beja has all services — accommodation, supermarkets, restaurants, a train station, and a bus station. It's the largest town on the Nascente between Tavira and Evora, and the last major resupply point before the long Alentejo stretch ahead.
Carrascosinha is a tiny hamlet between Beja and Sao Matias. No services. The camino passes through on quiet roads across the Alentejo plain — wheat fields, olive groves, and scattered cork oaks stretching to the horizon.
Sao Matias is a small village on the road between Beja and Cuba. There may be a cafe open but services are limited. The camino passes through on the flat Alentejo road.
Cuba is a small Alentejo town with basic services. Cante Alentejano, a regional form of polyphonic singing recognized by UNESCO as Intangible Cultural Heritage, is popular here. Performances are spontaneous and can't be arranged in advance — for the best chance to hear it, visit the town's taverns in the evening.
Cuba has cafes, a small supermarket, and some accommodation options.
About 2 km outside Cuba, a left turn off the main road at the Toros de Nunez sign is possible, but arrows don't point this way. This route goes through private property with several signs warning of gado bravo (aggressive cattle). The safer option is to stay on the road.
Vila Ruiva is a small Alentejo village between Cuba and Alvito. No services of note for pilgrims. The landscape is characteristic flat Alentejo — golden wheat fields in summer, green in spring.
Alvito has a 15th-century castle that's now a pousada — the Pousada Castelo Alvito. For an unforgettable night in a 500-year-old castle that won't break the bank, consider staying here.
The village has basic services — a cafe, small shops, and accommodation.
At a fork shortly after leaving Alvito, the arrows point left. This is the most direct route, but consider taking the right fork to go through Agua de Peixe. This unusual village consists of little more than a 16th-century palace (no entry) with ruins of millstones scattered around the entrance.
Agua de Peixe is an unusual village consisting of little more than a 16th-century palace (closed to visitors) with ruins of old millstones scattered around the entrance. It's a short detour from the main camino and worth a look for the atmosphere. No services.
Viana do Alentejo is a pleasant town with a historic castle and good supermarkets. Given that there are few, if any, accommodation options between here and Evora, it's the obvious place to spend the night.
The castle receptionist was responsible for way-marking the stage leading into Viana do Alentejo and is a good source of information about the camino, besides having an official stamp. Although the castle walls and towers can be appreciated from outside, it's worth paying to enter to see the striking Manueline portal of one of the two churches inside.
Viana has basic services — supermarkets, cafes, accommodation, and a pharmacy.
The camino to Evora is a tough stage of 36 km, including 15 km on a busy road (the N254) after Aguiar, possibly with no shoulder to walk on depending on how recently the roadside weeds have been cut. An unofficial option to break up this stage and avoid the difficult road stretch would be to head northwest from Viana do Alentejo on the N257 and join the N380. This would still entail road walking, but the N380 is a secondary road and there are accommodation options to break up the stage, unlike on the N254.