Sevilla demands at least two extra days. It's Spain's fourth-largest city but the old town is walkable, and the density of what's worth seeing makes rushing through a waste.
Start at the Cathedral — the largest Gothic church in the world, built between 1401 and 1506 on the site of the main mosque. The builders' stated ambition was to construct something "so beautiful and so grand that those who see it finished will take us for mad." They succeeded. The interior is cavernous, the retablo mayor is the largest altarpiece on earth, and Columbus's tomb is carried aloft by four bronze figures representing the kingdoms of Castile, Leon, Aragon, and Navarra. DNA analysis in 2024 confirmed the remains are his — ending a centuries-long dispute with Santo Domingo.
La Giralda, the bell tower, began life as the mosque's minaret. You ascend via ramps, not stairs — the muezzin rode a horse to the top. The views from the summit are the best orientation you'll get.
The Real Alcazar, a few steps south, is essential. Pedro I commissioned Mudejar craftsmen from Toledo, Granada, and Sevilla itself to build his palace in the 1360s, and the result is one of the finest examples of Mudejar architecture on the peninsula. It's still a working royal residence — the oldest in Europe. The gardens alone justify the visit. Together with the Cathedral and the Archivo de Indias next door, it forms a UNESCO World Heritage site.
The Metropol Parasol in the Plaza de la Encarnacion is the largest wooden structure in the world — locals call it Las Setas (the mushrooms). A walkway across the top gives you an aerial view of the rooftops. The Plaza de Espana, built for the 1929 Exposition, is the most photographed square in Andalucia. The Torre del Oro on the riverbank was built by the Almohads in the 13th century and served as an anchor point for a defensive chain stretched across the Guadalquivir.
If museums appeal, the Museo de Bellas Artes occupies a former convent and houses art from ecclesiastical properties dissolved by royal decree in 1835. The Museo del Baile Flamenco and the Convento de Santa Paula are also worth the visit.
Pick up your credential at the Cathedral's Parochial Office, the Amigos del Camino de Santiago en Sevilla offices in Triana, or at several backpacker hostels. Get two — the Plata is long and stamps fill up fast. The Amigos office can also advise on trail conditions, which matters during the rainy season.
Sevilla's position on the Guadalquivir — navigable to the sea — made it the gateway to the Americas. The Casa de Contratacion, established in 1503 by Queen Isabella, regulated all trade with the New World from here. Columbus sailed from nearby. Magellan's fleet departed the river in 1519; only the Victoria returned, completing the first circumnavigation of the earth.
Columbus is buried in the Cathedral. Ferdinand III, who took the city from the Moors in 1248, is buried there too. The city's NO8DO motto — visible on manhole covers, lampposts, and flags everywhere — dates from King Alfonso X, who was supported by Sevilla during his civil war against his son Sancho. The 8 is a skein of wool (madeja), making the motto "No me ha dejado" — she has not abandoned me.
In a major city the size of Sevilla you can always expect there to be a celebration of something going on, but the largest and most iconic one is the week of Semana Santa leading up to Easter. Reserve a room early.
CAMINO MARKERS: Be aware that there is no single official designation of the camino trail. Between Sevilla and Santiago, the camino is maintained by a number of local and regional governments, as well as by several ‘Amigo’ associations. Along the way, you will find yellow arrows, ceramic shell tiles (whose orientation may or may not be significant), bronze plaques embedded in the sidewalk, post-mounted street signs, striped trail markings, and privately made and installed signs. Seldom though will you find more than two of these in any given area and before long you will develop a sense of what to look for. When you cross from region to region, or when you enter a large city, be on the lookout for something new.The markings of the camino in Andalucia come in the form of hand-painted yellow arrows, blue and yellow stickers, and ceramic tiles bearing a shell. In the case of the shell, the tile is oriented in such a way that you should walk in the direction of the ‘hinge’, which is to say towards the point where all of the lines converge. Note that this is not always the case in other parts of Spain, but the Amigos in Sevilla have done a good job of installing them as such. The camino begins at the Cathedral and makes its way to the Río Guadalquivir to cross at the Puente de Isabel II. This is the first bridge north of the Plaza de Toros. Once over the bridge, you have entered the barrio of Triana.
Once over the bridge, the camino turns right onto Calle San Jorge, and then right again onto the Calle Antillano Campos, followed by a left onto Calle Castilla which curves gently to the left. The arrows will direct you across a small paved square and up a broad set of stairs. Once at the top you will be facing a very large roundabout. Cross twice, keeping to the right both times (placing you on the diagonally opposite corner).
From here walk north (NOT over the busy bridge) along the road with a shabby looking parking lot on your left. You will soon cross part of that parking lot just before crossing the Río Guadalquivir (1.8km) for a second time. The way ahead is across the bridge, which is divided between a bicycle and pedestrian lane and a vehicular lane (traffic is oncoming but motorcycles tend to take a few liberties with the law, take note). Once over the bridge the camino splits into two routes of equal length:
1. THE RIVER ROUTE: This route has a reputation for being a bit unsavory, and it certainly does feel run down at the onset. Piles of windswept trash and the occasional squatter hut don’t lend it much credibility but it really is the more scenic of the two routes. That said, if you are uncertain it would not be the worst idea to walk with another pilgrim. During times of heavy rain, this route may be impassible. To follow the river route, turn right after crossing the bridge. The way is well marked and you will bypass nearly all of the industrial zone. CAUTION: When the camino returns to the paved road it does so at a roundabout which serves as a junction for the N-630 and there is a spray-painted yellow arrow indicating that you should turn right to go up the on-ramp. This is NOT the case, keep walking straight and under the highway towards the main road through Santiponce.
2. THE ROAD ROUTE (via Camas): This route travels through well-populated areas as well as through a long industrial estate and might be your only option following heavy rains. To follow this route keep on straight after the bridge. The arrows along the way are extremely faded but there are a few ceramic shells to keep you in the right direction. It is fairly straightforward: Keep on straight through a residential area full of bars and shops and play areas for children. Where this road ends turn right onto Calle José Payán (a narrow road). Follow it to the first large intersection, which is a roundabout known as Plaza Constitución and which is identifiable for the Iglesia de Santa María de Gracia. From the roundabout keep to the left (passing the church with it on your right) and continue all the way to a large roundabout. NOTE: This is a large roundabout and you have to get to the other side without the benefit of any protection rails, so be careful and go slow. Once on the other side, the camino follows a straight path through an industrial estate (though along a dedicated bike & hike lane). At the far end of the estate, it rejoins the river route and proceeds into Santiponce.
This route travels through well-populated areas as well as through a long industrial estate and might be your only option following heavy rains. To follow this route keep on straight after the bridge. The arrows along the way are extremely faded but there are a few ceramic shells to keep you in the right direction. It is fairly straightforward: Keep on straight through a residential area full of bars and shops and play areas for children. Where this road ends turn right onto Calle José Payán (a narrow road). Follow it to the first large intersection, which is a roundabout known as Plaza Constitución and which is identifiable for the Iglesia de Santa María de Gracia. From the roundabout keep to the left (passing the church with it on your right) and continue all the way to a large roundabout.
NOTE: This is a large roundabout and you have to get to the other side without the benefit of any protection rails, so be careful and go slow. Once on the other side, the camino follows a straight path through an industrial estate (though along a dedicated bike & hike lane). At the far end of the estate, it rejoins the river route and proceeds into Santiponce.
Italica deserves a half-day even if Roman ruins aren't normally your thing. Founded in 206 BC, this was the first Roman settlement in Hispania and the birthplace of emperors Trajan and Hadrian.
Before you reach the ruins, the Monasterio de San Isidoro del Campo is at the southern end of town. It's free, but they only open the doors on the hour — time your arrival. Continue north along the main road to the Teatro Romano, then to the Anfiteatro. The amphitheatre held 25,000 spectators and is one of the largest in the empire. Fans of Game of Thrones will recognize it as the Dragonpit from Season 8.
The mosaic floors in the excavated houses are remarkably well preserved — the Casa de los Pajaros and Casa del Planetario are highlights. Much of what was portable has been moved to the Museo Arqueologico de Sevilla for safekeeping.
Italica was founded by Publius Cornelius Scipio Africanus to settle Roman veterans wounded in the Battle of Ilipa during the Second Punic War. It grew into one of the great cities of Roman Hispania. Trajan, born here in 53 AD, became the first emperor from a province rather than Rome itself. His adopted son and successor Hadrian — of wall fame — was also from Italica.
The camino leaves Santiponce along the same road that it came in on. Shortly after passing the archaeological site of Itálica it once again does a little dance around the highway on-ramps. Here, keep on this road to pass under the highway. Immediately after the last ramp (the northbound one), the camino splits but the split is not really marked.
The official route, at times flooded, leaves the road to follow a path on your left. This is the preferred route when it is passable and it is a straight path towards Guillena.
The alternate route adds about 5km to the camino but may be the only option after heavy rains. The start of it is not marked and you need only to continue along the road where the official route leaves it. Keep to the left side of the road and mind the traffic. The camino gets to the edge of a large town called La Algaba but doesn’t actually enter it. Instead, it skirts around the town to the left and you soon have the option to walk along a dirt path adjacent to the road.... or along the road if needed. Keep an eye open for the signs, and arrows, which will eventually lead you away from the road (left) along a dirt road. This path is well marked and used by service trucks for the local industry. It passes through citrus groves and the occasional cotton field before rejoining a different road to enter the village of Torre de la Reina.
An unassuming Andalusian village whose cobbled streets are lined with whitewashed houses and orange trees. A bar in the main square. No other services.
The arrows in town lead you through the main square and right up to the A-8080. Cross it (towards Casa Esteban) and follow a side road to your right. Soon the camino returns to a rural setting and makes several twists and turns before arriving at the outskirts of Guillena.
A modest town that's been on maps for as long as maps have existed. Most services and the private albergue are along the main road. The municipal albergue is next to the swimming pools — a welcome sight in the Andalusian heat.
The private albergue Luz del Camino is on the main road about 50m past the turn mentioned below.
At the start of town laminated signs take you off of the main road. The Camino follows the Calle Real past the Iglesia de Nuestra Señora de Granada and eventually to the municipal albergue. If you miss those signs, or if you prefer to stay at the private albergue located on the main road, skip that turn. There are more arrows further up the road which will bring you to the municipal albergue.
Both the camino and the road will eventually cross the Río Huelva at which point the camino follows beside the road all the way to the first roundabout. Here, turn left towards the gas station to cross through a small industrial park. The camino returns to the groves for a quiet walk through the countryside.
Shortly before Castilblanco de los Arroyos the camino rejoins the main road. At the entrance to Castilblanco there are two options. To the right the camino follows the main road through town, passing a gas station, the municipal albergue, and several restaurants before leaving town along the road. To the left the camino goes through town along cobbled lanes, passing several bars and the church before rejoining the road out of town.
A small white town at the edge of the Sierra Morena. Services include a gas station, several bars, and shops along the main road. Stock up here — the next 30 km to Almaden have no water sources and no services.
The stage between Castilblanco de los Arroyos and Almaden de la Plata is a very challenging and long day. There are zero places along the way to refill your water so be sure to carry extra with you along this stretch of nearly 30km.
The way out of Castilblanco de los Arroyos is along a path immediately adjacent to the road for the next 15km. It leaves the road at the entrance to a gated farm.
The gate to the municipal farmlands of Berrocal is usually closed. If it is, look to the right for a separate entrance for hikers. The camino from here to Almaden is along farm tracks and lanes. It descends to the Arroyo de los Zahurdones (4.7km) and includes a particularly steep (but short) ascent up to the Cerro del Calvario (6.4km). From there it descends into Almaden.
Almaden sits in a small flat valley beneath the Sierra Morena mountains. The name comes from the Arabic al-ma'din (the mine) — the Romans extracted marble here, and the quarries were active into the modern era. The town is quiet and unhurried, with basic services.
The 15 km ahead to El Real de la Jara have no fountains — fill up before leaving.
The road ahead is another 15km stretch without fountains, stock up in Almaden before setting off.
The camino is well marked through town and quickly returns to rural tracks; it follows a decidedly not straight path to El Real de la Jara as it attempts to go around the peaks rather than over them.
Accommodation in Almadén de la Plata.
| Casa del Reloj 12€ 10 |
A stream crossing between Almaden de la Plata and El Real de la Jara. No services.
About 1km after leaving El Real, the camino crosses a small creek which marks the entrance to the region of Extremadura. It continues to follow rural trails until El Culebrin and the adjacent 24h truck stop.
The Castillo de El Real de la Jara overlooks the town from a hilltop to the east — climb up for the views and a fine sunset. The castle dates to the 13th century, built during the Reconquista to defend the shifting frontier between Christian and Moorish territory. It's empty inside but has been made safe for exploring.
The town itself is small, with a couple of bars and basic supplies. About 1 km south of town, a small creek marks the border between Andalucia and Extremadura.
About 1km after leaving El Real, the camino crosses a small creek which marks the entrance to the region of Extremadura. It continues to follow rural trails until El Culebrin and the adjacent 24h truck stop.
