Estella
Camino Frances
Estella (Lizarra in Basque) has more historical architecture per square meter than most cities twice its size. The camino enters along the west bank of the Río Ega, but to see the best of the town you'll need to cross the river.
The two buildings not to miss are the Palacio de los Reyes de Navarra — a rare example of Romanesque civic architecture, with a carved capital depicting Roland's battle with the Saracen giant Ferragut — and the Iglesia de San Pedro de la Rúa, whose cloister is one of the finest Romanesque cloisters in Navarra. Two of its four galleries were destroyed when the castle above was demolished in the 16th century, but what remains is exceptional.
Other churches worth seeking out include the Iglesia del Santo Sepulcro (closed since 1881 but with a magnificent Gothic doorway), the Iglesia de San Miguel with its Romanesque tympanum, and the Basílica del Puy at the top of town. The climb to the Basílica is rewarded with views over the entire valley.
The old quarter is compact and pleasant for wandering. Several albergues operate on both sides of the river. Bars and restaurants line the streets, and the pintxos are solid. A supermarket and all basic services are available. The tourist office next to the Palacio has maps for walking trails in the surrounding area — useful if you're taking a rest day.
Public bathrooms and a drinking fountain are at the entrance to Estella, just past the first albergue.
Thursday is market day — as it has been for 900 years. The Plaza de los Fueros (opposite the Iglesia de San Juan) fills with stalls selling fresh produce from across the region.
Estella has two patron celebrations. San Andrés is honored on the first Friday before the first Sunday in August — known as El Viernes de Gigantes, with giant figures parading through the streets and a running of the bulls. La Virgen del Puy is celebrated on May 25.
Estella's growth as a commercial center was driven not by pilgrims but by royal decree. King Sancho Ramírez founded the settlement at the end of the 11th century, granting it a charter to attract Frankish merchants. The town thrived as a trading post and eventually became a seat of Navarrese power. The concentration of Romanesque buildings reflects that period of prosperity.
The camino exits Estella along the river, crossing to the west bank. If you stayed in one of the albergues on the east side, cross back over the river to rejoin the route. The path passes through Ayegui and continues to the Fuente de Vino and Monasterio de Irache — about 3 km of easy walking.
Accommodation in Estella.
| Camping Lizarra 5.62€ |
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