Unquera sits at the Río Deva, which forms the border between Cantabria and Asturias. The crossing is marked by a bridge and a change in waymarking — in Asturias, the shell symbols are typically oriented with the hinge pointing toward Santiago, which can initially confuse pilgrims used to the Cantabrian system.
The town is known for one thing: corbatas, a puff-pastry sweet shaped like a bow tie that every bakery in town produces. Buy one for the road. Basic services available.
Continue straight through town along the main road parallel to the railway line. At the bridge over the Río Deva, turn right and cross the river into Asturias. On the other side arrows direct you left up the second street. From here you traverse the hillside directly into Colombres, the albergue is one of the first buildings in town.
Colombres is the first Asturian town on the Norte and one of the finest examples of Indiano architecture in Spain. The Indianos — ordinary Asturians, Cantabrians, and Basques who emigrated to the Americas during the 19th century — returned with fortunes that they poured into palatial homes and public works. The houses in Colombres are the best-preserved examples: colonial in style, eclectic in decoration, always with a palm tree as tribute to tropical lives left behind.
The Museo de la Emigración, housed in the Quinta Guadalupe (itself an Indiano mansion), is an excellent collection that tells the story of the emigration and return. Even if you don't go inside, walk the grounds — they give a sense of the scale of ambition these returning emigrants brought back.
An albergue serves pilgrims, but it's frequently booked by student groups in summer. Plan ahead.
The Indianos left during a period of profound rural poverty in the late 19th century. Most went to Cuba, Mexico, and Argentina. Few struck it rich, but those who did returned to transform their villages — financing schools, roads, water systems, and, of course, building the mansions that still line the streets. In Colombres, the primary benefactors brought the village to a level of modernization previously seen only in the Asturian capital.
A roadside truck stop adjacent to the main highways. Exercise caution crossing the N-634 and A-8 here — new construction has eliminated the old pilgrim pathway, and the crossing has no dedicated pedestrian facility.
The camino now crosses the N-634 and the A-8 at the start of Peral, ignore all arrows pointing you down the N-634 as new construction has eliminated the old pilgrim pathway. Once across the highways turn left down a gravel track to parallel the A-8. You will be on the north side of the highway and will need to get to the other side, though there is no dedicated crossing to do so. Exercise caution.
A hamlet where the camino route gets confusing. Two options: the road to Buelna, and a coastal route that's more scenic and safer but harder to find. The arrows for the coastal path are frequently painted over with black paint — look for either a yellow arrow or a suspicious mess of black. The coastal route crosses the railway and follows the shore.
When the camino returns to the N-634 things get a bit confusing. There are two routes here, one that follows the road all the way to Buelna and beyond and an alternative which follows the coastline. The second route is the preferred option for its safety and scenery but it can be difficult to locate.
To follow the coastal route cross the N-634 when you get to it and turn left to follow it towards Buelna. The turn off is almost immediate and the arrows to show the way are frequently covered over with black paint so look for either a yellow arrow or a mess of black paint. To your right is a small path that crosses the railway line. Follow this trail and it will bring you to Buelna.
The turn off is to the left, remember that in Asturias the shell symbols are typically oriented such that the ‘hinge’ of the symbol represents Santiago.
The albergue is down this side road a short distance. Beyond it the camino descends and then turns off to the right, crosses uphill through some forests and then zig-zags back down to the N-634. See notice below.
From Buelna you can choose between the road and the coast again. For the coastal option, follow signs for the E9 trail to Pendueles. A bar and albergue serve the village.
From Buelna you can again choose between the road and the coast. The road is evident, to get to the coast follow the signs for the E9 trail to Pendueles.
A small village with a decaying Casa del Indiano in the center — abandoned for what looks like half a century, with only the palm tree surviving. The Ermita de San Acacio is nearby. From here the camino splits: the newer official route follows the coast through Andrín (more scenic), while the old route goes through Vidiago (more road, but an albergue along the way).
There are two routes between Pendueles and Llanes. The split between the two occurs shortly after you pass the Playa de Vidiago.Option 1: The NEW camino along the coast through Andrín - 14.6The new official camino between Pendueles and Llanes stays north of the A-8 and follows a slightly longer path. This route is both more scenic and more comfortable on your feet.Option 2: The old camino through Vidiago - 14.2This route, which until recently has been the official camino, was retired to keep pilgrims off of the main road. It is much more road walking than the new camino, however there is an albergue along this option.
Accommodation in Pendueles.
| Albergue Castiellu 20€ 8 |
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Llanes is the most popular town on the Asturian coast and earns its reputation. The old quarter is a medieval grid of narrow streets enclosed by fragments of the original town walls, packed with bars, restaurants, and enough architectural interest to warrant a slow wander.
The Basílica Menor de Santa María de la Asunción and the Capilla de Santa Ana are the main monuments, though you may get turned around finding them in the web of pedestrian streets. On the waterfront, the Cubos de la Memoria — a series of painted concrete blocks by Basque artist Agustín Ibarrola — add a jolt of color to the harbor.
On the approach into town you can't miss the large Casas de Indianos, many well preserved and contributing to the reason Llanes draws the tourist crowds it does. To the south, the Cantabrian mountains are visible, and the limestone caves of the Cabrales valley — source of Spain's finest blue cheese — are within day-trip distance.
All services: bars, restaurants, supermarkets, pharmacy, accommodation, train station. The old town's concentration of pintxo-style bars makes it one of the better eating stops between Bilbao and Gijón.
The camino enters Llanes from the south along the Avenida de la Concepción and continues along it all the way to the Río Carrocedo. At the river, the streets are mostly for pedestrians only and the camino does not deviate from the road, it follows along through several name changes and the old town and passes the train station on the way out of town. Shortly after it leaves the road and turns left to cross the railway and continue along a path to Póo.
Accommodation in Llanes.
| Albergue La Casona del Peregrino 18-20€ 44 Booking.com |
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| Llanes Hostel 23€ 62 Booking.com |
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A small village east of Celorio with a beach a short walk from the center. The camino winds through town, crossing the AS-263 to follow a coastal path known as the Senda Cicloturista to Celorio.
Póo straddles the AS-263 and the camino winds its way through town, crossing the main road to follow a coastal path known locally as the Senda Cicloturista to Celorio. Alternatively, it is possible to turn left to follow the AS-263 there.
Celorio is a beach village with a monastery. The Monasterio de San Salvador is not open to visitors, but the church occasionally is. The village is well known for its festivals — three spread across July and August, including a procession of the Virgin to the beach and a competition between neighboring villages to erect the tallest eucalyptus tree in the church square.
The beach is good and the atmosphere is relaxed. A bar and basic services are available.
Celorio is well known for its enthusiastic festivals. There are three spread out during the months of July and August. The first is in honor of the Virgen del Carmen and begins on the first Sunday after the 16th of July at the Iglesia de San Salvador; it involves a procession with the Virgen to the beach. One week before this there is the hoguera (bonfire), wherein the neighboring villages compete to erect the largest eucalyptus tree (chopped and hauled back to town) in the church square. The third is the día del bollu to celebrate the patron of the city San Salvador on the first Sunday of August; it puts the food in feast.
The route through Celorio is well marked, though if you wander off of it you may get turned around easily in the web of streets of this small village. If in doubt head towards the beach, which the camino passes on its way out of town along a coastal road.
Barro has a beach and a bar just off the main road to your right. The Iglesia de Nuestra Señora de los Dolores, at the far end of town, is worth the short detour — it sits on the estuary with La Entrada beach nearby. In recent years, illegal coastal development here has been torn down and the green space restored.
San Roque is celebrated on the 15th of August.
Passing through Barro, there are a beach and bar to your right just off the main road. Further ahead at the end of town the camino turns left to leave the road; just past this turn is a small detour to visit the Iglesia de Nuestra Señora de los Dolores and the La Entrada beach, both located on the estuary. If you do go this way you can keep on the road which will rejoin the camino at the end of Niembru.
The camino doesn't pass through Niembru proper. Between here and Naves the path follows the hillside to the north, descending to the AS-263 and crossing the Río Bedón past the late Romanesque Monasterio de San Antolín de Bedón.
The camino does not go through town, unless you followed the road from the church/beach. Between here and Naves the camino keeps to a quiet path along the hillside to the north. Before long it descends to rejoin the AS-263, and crosses the Río Bedón after passing the late Romanesque Monasterio de San Antolín de Bedón. It keeps to this road as it passes beneath the A-8 and then turns left to enter Naves along a back road.
Naves is a small village with a notable detour: 600 m north, the Playa de Gulpiyuri is an inland beach — seawater enters through underground channels to fill a small sandy cove completely enclosed by green cliffs. It may be the world's smallest sea. Worth the walk if tide and time allow.
The camino follows back roads and trails from here through Villahormes to Nueva.
Santa Ana, patron of the village, is celebrated on the 26th of July. San Antolín on the first two days of September, and San Vicente on the 11th of November alongside San Martín.
The camino follows a course along paved back roads and trails to Villahormes and beyond and doesn’t return to the AS-263 until it arrives at Nueva.
A small village between Naves and Nueva. No particular services. Near the entrance to Nueva, a coastal route variant begins.
At the entrance to Nueva, an alternative coastal route starts.
Accommodation in Villahormes.
| Albergue de Villahormes 15€ 40 |
A village on the AS-263 with basic services. The camino continues through quiet country roads and villages toward Ribadesella, passing through Piñeres and Cuerres.
April: San Jorge on the 23rd. July: San Juan on the last weekend of the month. August: Nuestra Señora del Henar on the 5th. September: Santo Cristo del Amparo, a celebration of the highest quality, on the 13th and 14th. Also La Virgen de la Blanca on the 7th and 8th.
Between Nueva and Ribadesella the camino follows along a combination of quiet country roads and foot paths, passing through the villages of Piñeres and Cuerres. It returns to the AS-263 just before Ribadesella and follows it into the city.
A hamlet between Nueva and Cuerres. No services. Ignore signs for the Bici Route Bufones de Pría — they'll lead you off the camino.
Beware the signs for the Bici Route Bufones de Praía.
Cuerres has a slightly off-camino gem: the Iglesia de San Mamés, which served as a pilgrim hospital in the 16th and 17th centuries and preserves a fine stone vault. In front stands the 16th-century Fuente de Peregrinos (Pilgrim Fountain) — one of the few medieval pilgrim infrastructure elements still standing on the Norte. Worth the detour.
San Antón is celebrated on the 17th of January.
Ribadesella is divided by the Río Sella — the old town on the east bank, the beach expansion on the west. The camino crosses the bridge and turns right along the Playa de Santa Marina, which is where the albergue sits. If you stay on the beach side, don't miss the old town: it has handsome manor houses, the Iglesia de Santa María Magdalena (which doubled as a pilgrim hospital), and the Capilla de Santa Ana. The climb to Monte Corberu rewards with the 16th-century Renaissance Ermita de Nuestra Señora de Guía and broad views.
The Descenso del Sella — a mass canoe race down the river held on the first Saturday of August — is one of the biggest sporting events in Asturias. If you happen to be here for it, expect crowds and atmosphere.
All services available. Bars and restaurants on both banks.
The Romans settled both banks of the Sella. Alfonso X united them in the 13th century. The town prospered from whaling (the whales wintered in the river estuary), salmon fishing, and timber. The Indianos added their mansions in the 19th century.
San Antón is celebrated on the 17th of January, San Juan on the 24th of June, La Virgen de la Guia in July, and Santa Marina on the 25th of August.
The city of Ribadesella is bisected by the Río Sella, on the east back of which is the old town and the west bank its expansion along the beachfront. The camino crosses the river along the road and turns right once across. The arrows point the way along the beach through town. At the far end of town it climbs slightly and begins to follow a country road as it traverses the hillside. It passes a roundabout and the campsite of Los Sauces and continues to San Pedro.
Accommodation in Ribadesella.
| Albergue Roberto Frassinelli 27*€ 50 |
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A hamlet east of Ribadesella on the camino. No services. Near Abeu, a turnoff leads to the albergue in San Esteban de Leces.
After passing through San Pedro the camino nears the town of Abeu, where there is a turn off to get to the albergue in San Esteban which is a short distance down the road.
Slightly off the camino, with an albergue but no other services. If you stay here, retrace your steps to Abeu to rejoin the trail.
If you stayed at the albergue here retrace your steps to Abeu to resume the camino, turning left at the bend in the road to follow the left most trail.
Vega is a pleasant surprise — a beachside village with a rustic mountain feel. A beach, some beach bars, a small shop, and the Ermita de la Magdalena are all there is, but it's enough. The camino descends all the way to the beach before climbing back up to Berbes.
The camino descends through Vega de Ribadesella all the way to the beach, where it then climbs back up to Berbes, passing along the way a few hamlets without any services.
A hamlet the camino passes through on its way to the coast. The trail crosses the N-632 and follows a brief climb before descending to the beach and campsite at Morís, then continues along a coastal trail to La Espasa.
Straight through Berbes, crossing the N-632 but eventually following along it for a short distance. Leave the road for a trail to your right which takes you briefly uphill and then back down again to the beach and campsite at Moris. From here the camino follow a coastal trail to the beach of La Espasa.
La Espasa is essentially a beach with a couple of restaurants, a public restroom, and a children's playground. The camino follows the beach, with a bar and facilities at the far end. The adjacent town of La Isla sits north of the N-632 and is technically off the camino.
The town of La Isla sits to the north of the N-632, and the camino does not technically pass through town. From the albergue in La Isla it is possible to get to Colunga via a coastal path that takes you through Güerres. Inquire at the albergue for more information.
The camino follows the beach here, at the far end of which is a bar and public restroom. Beyond that the camino crosses a small river and follows along the N-632.At this point the camino follows along the N-632, leaving it on several occasions for safety but always returning to it.
La Isla sits just north of the N-632 — not quite on the camino, but an albergue here draws pilgrims off the trail. From the albergue, a coastal path through Güerres provides an alternative way to reach Colunga.
The town of La Isla sits to the north of the N-632, and the camino does not technically pass through town.From the albergue in La Isla it is possible to get to Colunga via a coastal path that takes you through Güerres. Inquire at the albergue for more information.
At the start of La Isla, which itself sits at the edge of the camino, the camino turns left off the N-632 to follow a quiet road through a number of small hamlets. It rejoins the N-632 at the entrance to Colunga.
Accommodation in La Isla.
| Marejada Hostel 20*€ 35 |
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| Albergue de peregrinos La Isla 10€ 22 |
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Güerres is on the coastal alternate from La Isla — a quieter way into Colunga that avoids the N-632. No services.
Colunga is a quiet market town on the Asturian coast that once served pilgrims from a hospital whose only remnant is the Capilla de Santa Ana. The old road through town — the Calle del Doctor Grande Covián — was formerly the Calle Real and has been the camino through town for centuries.
The nearby Museo del Jurásico de Asturias (MUJA), perched on a hilltop 3 km south, is worth a detour if you have any interest in paleontology. This stretch of coast — the Costa de los Dinosaurios — has produced hundreds of fossilized footprints and bone fragments from the Jurassic period. The museum is shaped like a dinosaur footprint when seen from the air, which tells you something about the local enthusiasm for the subject.
Basic services in town. Bars on the main street.
The Fiestas de Nuestra Señora de Loreto is held on the second Sunday in July.
At the far end of Colunga turns left to follow the AS-258, and then quickly thereafter it turns right at a fork to follow the CL-1. It follows this paved country road all the way to Pernús, passing under A-8 at the half way point. It nears several small hamlets.
A hamlet between Colunga and La Llera. The camino leaves the CL-1 briefly to pass the Iglesia de San Pedro before returning to the road. No services.
The camino leaves the CL-1 only to pass the Church of San Pedro, but then continues to follow it to La Llera.
Another hamlet where the camino leaves the road to pass a church — this one dedicated to San Antolín — before resuming along the CL-1 to Priesca. No services.
Again the camino leaves the road to pass the local church, this time dedicated to San Antolín. Again it resumes along the CL-1 to Priesca.
The 10th-century Iglesia de San Salvador is one of the finest examples of Pre-Romanesque architecture in Asturias — a group of buildings so important they carry UNESCO World Heritage status collectively. The church will almost certainly be locked, but perseverance pays: a few locals hold keys, and if you ask around with enough conviction and mime the unlock gesture, someone may oblige.
The interior preserves fragments of 10th-century frescoes and the characteristic horseshoe arches of the Asturian Pre-Romanesque style. If you've been paying attention to the churches since Villaviciosa, you'll notice how this one sits in the lineage between the earlier examples in Oviedo and the later Romanesque churches further west.
In Priesca, after visiting the church, the camino leaves the CL-1 briefly along a path to the right. It rejoins the road for a short distance not far ahead, but then leaves it for the last time along a trail to the left. This trail begins a road shortly after passing under the A-8 at the start of Sebrayo.
A hamlet at the edge of the A-8 motorway. At the far end of the village the camino splits — straight continues along the road, while the other option crosses the A-8 to join the N-632 into Villaviciosa. No services.
At the far end of Sebrayo turn left to pass under the A-8 and once on the other side turn right. Keep on this road. It will round the hillside to your left and come to an intersection where you have two options. The split occurs near a crossing for the A-8, and you can either continue straight along the course you have been following, or cross the A-8 to resume the walk into Villaviciosa along the N-632.
Accommodation in Sebrayo.
| La oveja negra Donativo€ 14 |
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Villaviciosa has been called 'the fertile place' since the 14th century, and the name is earned. The valley's rich soil supports cattle, dairy, and — most importantly for your evening — apple orchards that produce the sidra for which Asturias is famous.
If you spot a sidrería, stop. Asturian cider is poured in a ritual that looks absurd until you taste the result: the bottle is held high overhead, the glass low at the hip (often behind the back), and a thin stream of cider falls the full distance to aerate before hitting the glass. You drink the small pour — called a culín — immediately. Don't let it sit. The bartender will pour rounds for the whole bar in rapid succession, and the empty dregs get tossed on the floor. Don't be alarmed — that's what the sawdust is for.
The late-Romanesque Iglesia de Santa María de la Oliva, near the center, is worth more than a passing glance. The west portal's carved figures are among the best transitional Romanesque-Gothic work in Asturias. The Ayuntamiento and a monument to Carlos I (who landed here in 1517 on his first visit to Spain) round out the historical interest.
All services available. Restaurants and sidrerías on the main streets.
Carlos I of Spain (later Emperor Charles V) first set foot on Spanish soil at the nearby port of Tazones in September 1517. He was seventeen, spoke no Spanish, and arrived with a Flemish court that immediately irritated the local nobility. His landing here — instead of at a major port — was an accident of weather, but Villaviciosa has commemorated it ever since.
Santumedero de Sietes is celebrated on the 3rd of March. San Juan on the 24th of June, and Santiago on the 25th of July.
Pay close attention to the arrows through town. The camino follows a route which takes you past most of the more notable monuments, including the Ayuntamiento building, the monument to Carlos I, and the Iglesia de Santa María de la Oliva. At the church it turns left to follow the AS-255 out of town and to La Ferrería.
Accommodation in Villaviciosa.
| Albergue Villaviciosa 18-20*€ 28 |
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The camino crosses the Río de la Ría here. On the far bank, La Parra begins.
In La Ferrería the camino leaves the road and crosses the Río de la Ria. On the other side of the small river is La Parra.
A small village on the road to Casquita. Follow the road through and turn right at the end toward Grases. Casquita — and an important route junction — is 1 km ahead.
Follow the road through the small village, but turn right at the end of town to follow the VV-10 in the direction of Grases. Casquita, and an important split in the camino, are 1km away.
Casquita is where the Camino del Norte splits — twice in quick succession. Pay close attention.
The first fork, just past the chapel, is marked by two shells on a post. Left leads to Oviedo and the start of the Camino Primitivo. Straight continues on the Norte. If the Primitivo interests you — and it's a magnificent route — this is where you leave the coast.
A few hundred meters ahead, the second fork offers a minor choice: left onto a quiet lane through Niévares, or straight on the road (shorter, skips Niévares). Both rejoin before Peón.
In Casquita the Camino del Norte splits twice. Pay extra close attention to which route you chose as not all of them rejoin later.At the first split, just past the chapel at the start of the village and indicated by two shells on a post, you are presented with the option to leave the Camino del Norte and head towards Oviedo and the start of the Camino Primitivo. If you wish to follow that trail (not described here) turn left. Otherwise keep on straight to follow the official camino.Shortly ahead is the second split. Here the camino simply presents an option to stay on the road instead of turning left onto a lane. Here the road option is shorter and does not pass through Niévares.
For Oviedo and the Camino Primitivo: Turn left at the fork in the road in the direction of Camoca. The camino passes through several small hamlets on before arriving in San Pedro de Ambás: El Ronzon, La Fontana, El Campu, El Pelu Riva, and La Cruz. After La Cruz, at a small intersection with a picnic table in the middle, the camino splits. The camino is to the left, and the alternate route via Valdedíos is to the right. This alternate route adds 700m hundred meters and rejoins the camino at the Alto de la Campa. If you miss this turn, and still want to go through Valdedíos, stay on the road when you get to San Pedro de Ambás and there are more arrows directing you to Valdedíos.
A hamlet on the lane variant between Casquita and Peón. Beyond the village, the camino joins the VV-8 toward Peón. No services.
Beyond Niévares the camino joins the VV-8 and follows it to Peón.
A hamlet beyond which the camino leaves the VV-8 and begins climbing. The descent on the other side passes the El Pinal restaurant before crossing the A-8 into Deva. No services apart from the restaurant.
Beyond Peón the camino leaves the VV-8 and begins climbing uphill. It rejoins a different road at the summit and descends along it as far as the El Pinal restaurant. Just beyond the restaurant it leaves the road for a trail on your right. From here it continues desceding to cross the A-8 and into Deva.
Accommodation in Peón.
| Albergue Peón 15*€ 30 |
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Most services are available at the campsite. Two routes lead into Gijón from here.
The official camino turns right at the campsite. The alternative — which many pilgrims prefer — turns left and descends past the car park to join the Senda de Peña Francia, a riverside path that delivers you to the Playa de San Lorenzo on Gijón's eastern shore. From the beach, follow the coast through town to the harbor where the official route passes.
As you near the large and largely industrial city of Gijón the countryside virtually disappears. From here, all the way to Avilés, is difficult walking almost exclusively on pavement through city and industrial areas; the exception to the grime is the protected habitat west of the steel plant.
From the campsite in Deva there are two possible routes into Gíjon. The offical camino turns right at the campsite (with the campsite on your left). The alternative and some say more pleasant route along the river, turns left at the campsite and downhill past the parking lot. At the bottom of the hill it joins a path known as the Senda de Peña Francia, turn right when you get there. This alternative will bring you into Gíjon near the Playa de San Lorenzo. To get to the offical camino arrows simply follow the coast through town as far as the harbor where it passes.
Accommodation in Deva.
| Albergue and Camping Deva 7€ 36 Booking.com |
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Gijón is the largest city in Asturias and the gateway to the industrial stretch of the Norte — from here to Avilés, the walking is mostly urban and occasionally grim. But the city itself deserves a full afternoon.
The old town sits on the Cimadevilla peninsula, dividing the bay between the Playa de San Lorenzo to the east and the Playa de Arbeyal to the west. The peninsula's narrow streets climb to a headland park — the Cerro de Santa Catalina — where the concrete sculpture Elogio del Horizonte by Eduardo Chillida stands on the old naval battery. Don't just photograph it: step inside the curved walls and listen. The sculpture amplifies the sound of the waves crashing below into something close to a roar.
Down on the peninsula's eastern flank, the Termas Romanas de Campo Valdés are excavated remains of a Roman bathhouse, complete with intact heating systems. The Casa Natal de Jovellanos, an 18th-century palace, houses a museum honoring Gijón's most famous Enlightenment figure. The Iglesia de San Pedro, on the tip of the peninsula, is worth your time — the views from the churchyard alone justify the walk.
The Plaza Mayor and the Palacio de Revillagigedo (exterior only, sadly) anchor the base of the old town. For food, the sidrerías in Cimadevilla are among the best in Asturias — this is where the locals come, not where the tourists go.
If you have time for one thing off the camino path, make it the Laboral Ciudad de la Cultura. This enormous complex — said to be the largest building in Spain — was built in the 1950s as a Franco-era vocational school, sat abandoned by the 1990s, and has since been restored as a cultural center used by the University of Oviedo. The tower, modeled on Seville's Giralda, is the tallest in Asturias. Adjacent, the Jardín Botánico Atlántico is worth combining with the visit.
Other museums include the Gijón Railway Museum and the Aquarium, both on the western side. All services available. Transport connections throughout Asturias.
The Romans called it Gigia and made it their principal port on the northern coast. The town's strategic position — a defensible peninsula controlling a natural harbor — has made it coveted real estate for two millennia.
Gaspar Melchor de Jovellanos, born here in 1744, was the leading figure of the Spanish Enlightenment in Asturias: jurist, economist, reformer, and eventual political prisoner when his ideas proved too progressive for the crown. His birthplace is now a museum, and his influence on Asturian education and infrastructure is still visible.
San Pedro is celebrated on the 29th of June, as well as several other festivals celebrating Asturias and Cider throughout the year.
The best landmark to use when leaving Gíjon is the boat harbor. Follow along the coast, as far as the first residential apartment blocks to appear on your right-hand side. Pass to the right of the first building, heading down the Calle de Mariano Pola. Keep on this road as it changes names; first to the Avenida de Galicia then to the Avenida de la Argentina, and finally to the Carretera de Avilés. It is mostly straight with only a few bends and entirely city walking. By the time you get to the end of the city the view ahead reveals a massive steel production plant directly in front of you. The way around it the least pleasant stretch of the entire camino but there are no good options here. Descend to the road and turn right, following it around the factory. Keep an eye open for the turn off to the left which is not easy to notice with all of the traffic: it can be identified as being the only level railway crossing in the area and a sign points the way to Poago. Follow this road. It will eventually turn away from the factory and begin to wind up the hillside known as the Monte de Areo, the last part of the climb is along trails. This hillside is the silver lining of the gray cloud cast by the nearby factory, it is the location of the oldest known necropolis in Asturias as well as a Neolithic dolmen. From the highest point the camino descends to Santa Eulalia.
Accommodation in Gijón.
| Residencia Universitaria Cimadevilla 20*€ 23 |
The camino descends from the Monte de Areo — site of the oldest known necropolis in Asturias and a Neolithic dolmen — and crosses through Santa Eulalia. The church sits beside the CE-6. From here the country roads quiet down briefly before the urban sprawl resumes at Tabaza.
Cross over the CE-6 and pass the church of Santa Eulalia. At the next large road, the CE-5, turn left. Keep straight on this smaller country road as it passes the sign to Los Celleros, a village that doesn’t appear to have any buildings. This stretch of country roads is the quietest until you get to Tabaza.
At Tabaza the camino joins the main road into Avilés and stays on it for the next 9 km. Steel yourself.
At Tabaza the camino begins to follow along the main road into Avilés, the next 9km are along it.
A suburb on the southern approach to Avilés. The municipal albergue appears on your left as you reach the turn into the old town.
You will enter Avilés from the south and the municipal albergue is on your left-hand side when you get to the turn into the old town.
Avilés deserves more time than most pilgrims give it. The old town is a compact web of narrow cobbled streets, lined with multicolored houses perched on limestone arcades, opening into squares — the Plaza de España and the Plaza del Mercado — that reward a wander.
Three churches compete for attention. The Iglesia de Santo Tomás de Canterbury is one of the very few churches in Spain dedicated to an English saint (the other is in Caldas de Reis on the Portugués). The Iglesia de los Padres Franciscanos and the Parroquia de San Nicolás de Bari complete the trio. Opposite San Francisco, the small Museo de la Historia Urbana de Avilés packs an efficient overview of the city's history into less than an hour.
The Centro Niemeyer, designed by Oscar Niemeyer on the opposite bank of the estuary, is the modern cultural addition — a sweeping complex of white curves that polarizes opinion.
All services available. The walk out of Avilés, heading north along the river, is pleasant compared to the walk in.
Avilés traces its roots to prehistoric settlement, but the city's rise began when Alfonso III recognized it as the premier Asturian port and built defensive walls to repel the Normans. The walls lasted until 1818; the Normans did not.
The city's most famous seafarer was Pedro Menéndez de Avilés. In 1565 he captured Fort Caroline in Florida from the French and founded San Agustín (St. Augustine) — the oldest continuously inhabited European settlement in the United States. He became Florida's first governor.
The walk through Avilés, set upon the river, is due north. It is pleasant compared to the other side of town and the only real obstacle is a small but steep climb just before you get to Salinas.
The camino misses the beach at Salinas, which is a shame — the 2.5 km strand is popular with surfers and lined with the best restaurants and sidrerías in the area. The boardwalk runs the full length. At the far end, the camino begins one of the steepest climbs on the Norte — mercifully only 600 m long — to the Iglesia de San Martín at the top.
At the end of Salinas the camino begins one of the steepest and most challenging climbs of the camino. It is only 600m long but you will be glad to reach the Iglesia de San Martín at the top.
From the high point at San Martín the camino follows the ridge, rising and falling several times before climbing to the church at Santiago del Monte.
From the high point of San Martín the camino goes down but right back up again to follow along the ridge of the hillside. It goes up and down a few times before climbing up to the church at Santiago del Monte.
Accommodation in San Martín de Laspra.
| Albergue San Martín de Laspra Donativo€ 12 |
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A hamlet between Santiago del Monte and El Castillo. The camino passes beneath the A-81 and descends through forest. No services.
The camino from Santiago del Monte is along the road, winding uphill to pass beneath the A-81 after which it descends through the forest to El Castillo where it crosses the main road and climbs up to an overlook near the castle.
A hamlet on the ridge road. The camino continues along the road, winding uphill to pass beneath the A-81 before descending through forest to El Castillo.
The camino from Santiago del Monte is along the road, winding uphill to pass beneath the A-81 after which it descends through the forest to El Castillo where it crosses the main road and climbs up to an overlook near the castle.
The Castillo de San Martín, built over Roman foundations, gives the hamlet its name. The overlook near the castle is worth a pause. Descending from here, the roundabout is confusingly marked — old and new arrows compete. The camino does NOT turn right at the first roundabout; continue to the second and take the exit toward Soto del Barco.
The Castillo de San Martín sits on the site of a Roman fortification, improved and expanded in the medieval period to guard the mouth of the Río Nalón.
Descending from the castle overlook the camino arrives at a roundabout littered with old arrows and new arrows. At this roundabout, which is now cut off by guard rails, the camino does NOT turn right. Instead it follows the road a bit longer to the next roundabout. At this roundabout it does NOT turn down the N-632 to Muros de Nalon, but rather takes the second exit to pass the hotel in Soto del Barco.
The Hotel Palacio de la Magdalena marks the edge of town. Beyond it the camino descends the old N-632 to cross the Río Nalón. On the climb back up, watch for arrows directing you left into a neighborhood of Muros de Nalón where the albergue Casa Carmina — recommended for a meal — is located.
Past the Hotel Palacio de la Magdalena in Soto the camino continues down the old N-632, descending to the new N-632 bridge crossing over the Río Nalón. As it climbs back up keep an eye open for the arrows which take you off of the N-632 to your left which takes you through a neighborhood of Muros de Nalón where the albergue Casa Carmina (recommended for lunch or dinner) is located. Beyond the albergue follow the road to cross over the N-632 via an elevated pedestrian bridge, passing through Muros.
Located 2 km off the camino. Turn right after crossing the bridge onto the MU-1 if you want to visit.
A small town with a park, a train station, and little reason to linger unless you're eating at Casa Carmina nearby. The camino crosses the railway line and follows the Calle Francisco Cabal past the station before returning to forest trails toward El Pito.
San Antonio is celebrated on the Sunday closest to the 13th of June, and La Virgen del Carmen on the 16th of July.
At the end of the park the camino crosses over the railway line and turns right onto the Calle Francisco Cabal parallel to the track and past the train station. It quickly returns to the forest, winding its way to El Pito.
Accommodation in Muros de Nalón.
| Albergue Turístico Casa Carmina 15€ 28 Booking.com |
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| Albergue La Naranja Peregrina 20€ 10 |
On your right as you pass through town stands the Quinta de El Pito, sometimes called the Versailles of Asturias. This palatial estate was built by two brothers — sons of the village grocer — who made their fortune in the Americas and returned to build something that would make the neighbors talk. It worked. If the property is open for visits, don't miss it — the interior and grounds justify the detour.
The camino crosses through town along the main road, past the parks on your right, and the church on your left. Shortly past the church it turns off to the left and onto a road which becomes a path and dives through the forest again. It crosses beneath the railway track near El Peñedo.
The camino crosses the N-632 here and passes under the A-8. From this point it follows a mix of trails and country roads, ducking under both highways repeatedly as it threads through El Rellayo.
In El Peñedo the camino crosses the N-632 and continues to pass under the A-8. It follows a trail and small country roads at this point and will pass under both of these roads several more times as it passes through El Rellayo, and then again when you leave Rellayo.
The terrain becomes a series of ascents and descents, the camino tracing broad curves around hillsides on its way to Mumayor. Seldom straight, seldom level.
The terrain near El Rellayo becomes a series of ascents and descents, and is seldom on a straigh course. It tries to follow a level elevation and you will often feel as if you are walking in a broad curve as you traverse several hillsides on the way to Mumayor.
Two more hillsides and a descent into a shallow valley bring you to Soto de Luiña.
Beyond Mumayor the camino traverses two more hillsides and then descends to a shallow valley and Soto de Luiña.
A hamlet between Ballota and Cadavedo. No services.
Cadavedo is surrounded by nearly a hundred hórreos — the traditional Asturian raised granaries, square-bodied on conical stone stilts, used for storing corn and keeping it dry and rodent-free. Some are called paneras when they're large enough to serve as general storage. If you've been admiring them since Villaviciosa, this is where they reach critical mass.
The local beach is a quick walk away. A bar in the village.
La Fiesta de la Regalina, replete with traditional dances and costume, is held on the last Sunday of August.
From here the camino passes Villademoros, San Cristóbal, and Queruás along back roads and paths.
A hamlet between Cadavedo and Queruás. No services.
A hamlet before the descent into Canero. From here the camino follows farm roads toward and under the A-8. No services.
The patroness of the pueblo is Santa Ana, and the dual feasts of Santa Ana and Santa Anina are celebrated on the 26th and 27th of July.
From Queruás the camino follows farms roads towards and under the A-8, and then descends into Canero.
Accommodation in Queruás.
| Albergue Turístico La Yalga 21€ 16 Booking.com |
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Both the hotel and the bar are at the far end of town, past the river crossing. The camino joins the N-632a briefly, crosses a roundabout and the river, then picks up a trail on the right for the climb out of the valley.
Arriving at the few industrial buildings that signal your arrival in Canero, the camino joins the N-632a briefly. It passes through a roundabout and over the river, and then resumes along a trail on your right. From here you begin climbing back out of the valley, and along the way you pass the hotel and restaurant adjacent to the road. It is possible to stay on the road from the hotel, but there are trails that shortcut the switchbacks in the road and which take you back up to (and under) the A-8. The majority of the walk between here and Barcia is along the N-634.
Located off the camino along the N-634. No particular reason to detour.
A hamlet on the approach to Luarca. From here the walking is across gently rolling hills on paved country roads, descending into the east side of Luarca along the Río Negro.
From Barcia the walk is across gently rolling hills, though along paved country roads. There is a small descent into the east side of Luarca, which is located along a bend in the Río Negro. After crossing the river you enter into the historic center of town, where the majority of the accommodation options and all of the charm are to be found.
Luarca wraps around a bend in the Río Negro, with monuments, beaches, and accommodation split across both banks. On the way in, five Casas de los Indianos line the camino — the Villas Excelsior, Cristina, Rosario, Argentina, and Barrera — each a testament to the fortunes made in the Americas and brought home to impress.
The old town clusters around the river crossings. The headland walk to the faro and the Capilla de la Atalaya provides the best views — a steep hike, but the panorama of the town curving around the river mouth is worth it.
The Cementerio on the headland is one of the more dramatically situated in Asturias, perched above the cliffs. Severo Ochoa, the Nobel Prize-winning biochemist, is buried there — a native of Luarca who left for Madrid, then New York, and whose scientific legacy far exceeded anything the town expected of a grocer's son.
Bars, restaurants, and accommodation on both banks. A good town to spend an extra evening.
Severo Ochoa de Albornoz, born in Luarca in 1905, won the Nobel Prize in Physiology or Medicine in 1959 for his work on RNA synthesis. His career took him from Asturias to Madrid, Heidelberg, Oxford, and finally New York, where he spent most of his working life. He is buried in the clifftop cemetery overlooking the town.
The fiesta of Nuestra Señora del Rosario is celebrated on the 15th of August and San Timoteo is celebrated on the 22nd.
Leaving Luarca the camino climbs a bit, winding its way uphill though a residential expansion of the city. The road straightens out and levels off, and the camino follows it all the way to Otur. It crosses the N-634 along the way and when it passes through Otur (which is located on the N-634) it does so to the south of town.
Accommodation in Luarca.
| Albergue Villa de Luarca 15€ 22 Booking.com |
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A hamlet between Luarca and Otur. No services.
A village on the N-634. The camino passes through to the south of town, following a winding road that lessens the grade of the climb up Monte Faro. A steeper descent on the far side brings you back to the N-634 and down to Bao.
The camino keeps to this back road through Otur. It follows a not very straight path, and its twists and turns are designed to lessen the steepness of the climb up the Monte Faro. It doesn't climb all the way to the top thankfully, just far enough to get around the nearby A-8. The descent is steeper and brings you to the N-634 once again, which descends to the bottom of the shallow river valley and to Bao.
The camino follows the N-634 over the Río Barayu but quickly leaves it for a path on the left, climbing the hillside to Villapedre by a different route.
In Bao the camino follows the N-634 over the Río Barayu but quickly leaves it along a path on the left, charting a different course up this hillside to Villapedre.
The camino touches the N-634 briefly here. Don't miss the arrow to the right onto a country road — it's the quieter path to Piñera.
In Villapedre the camino follows along the N-634, but only very briefly. Do not miss the arrow to your right which takes you back onto a country road and over the railway tracks. It is the quieter path to Piñera but does require you to cross back over the N-634 again.
The web of country lanes in this area is not altogether straightforward. The camino may or may not cross the railway twice between here and Villaoril, but it will certainly return to the N-634 for a brief stretch before turning off again.
The roads in these parts, you may have noticed, are a web of country lanes which are not altogether very straightforward. Leaving Piñera you may or may not cross the railway line twice. But you will certainly return to the N-634 for a brief strech of walking along the road. It leave to the right onto another path and passes through Villaoril.
Follow the country road through Villaoril all the way to La Colorada, where a gas station and industrial buildings announce the approach to Navia.
Continue along the country road that brought you into Villaoril all the way to La Colorada, where you are greeted by a gas station and several industrial warehouses on your left.
Bar at the hotel. Past the industrial buildings, the camino turns left onto a quieter road into Navia.
Not far past the industrial buildings there are a few homes, and the camino turns left to take a quieter road to Navia.
Navia sits at the mouth of the Río Navia and serves as the commercial center for this stretch of coast. The old town — what remains of it — is compact enough for a quick loop. The harbor is functional rather than picturesque, but the riverside park is pleasant.
All services available. Beyond Navia, the camino mostly avoids the N-634 on country back roads until it crosses the A-8, after which the road becomes harder to escape.
Nuestra Señora de La Barca is celebrated from the 14th to the 17th of August.
Beyond Jarrio the camino mostly avoids the N-634 and instead keeps to the countryside back roads. Once it crosses over the A-8 however that pattern changes, and it follows the main road into Cartavio. From Cartavio to La Caridad it then struggles to stay off the road, leaving for brief stretches but alway returning to it. In La Caridad, after passing the municipal albergue, it returns to the old N-634 through town.
A hamlet between Navia and Cartavio. The camino follows country back roads through here. No services.
Beyond Jarrio the camino mostly avoids the N-634 and instead keeps to the countryside back roads. Once it crosses over the A-8 however that pattern changes, and it follows the main road into Cartavio. From Cartavio to La Caridad it then struggles to stay off the road, leaving for brief stretches but alway returning to it. In Cartavio, after passing the municipal albergue, it returns to the old N-634 through town.
A hamlet on the road between Navia and La Caridad. No services.
A hamlet between Cartavio and La Caridad. No services.
Accommodation in Arboces.
| Albergue de peregrinos de Arboces 7€ |
La Caridad takes its name from the charity the town showed pilgrims in the 19th century — before that it was San Miguel de Mohíces. The sentiment apparently stuck.
Services are plentiful for pilgrims. The camino follows the old N-634 through town. Just before it merges with the new N-634, arrows lead left onto a different road toward Valdepares.
San Miguel, patron of La Caridad, is celebrated on the 29th of September. Market day is Tuesday.
The way through La Caridad is entirely along the old N-634 which will eventual meet up with the new N-634. Just before it does, the camino leaves both roads to follow a different road to the left. You will return to and cross the N-634 on the way into Valdepares, and you will then return to and cross it once more on the way out of Valdepares.
Valdepares is mostly empty these days — most homes are seasonal. At the church, the camino turns left to cross the N-634, but a right turn instead leads to a coastal path toward the Castro y Mirador de Cabo Blanco — the remains of a Celtic castro on the headland. It's the long way around to Porcía (4.1 km), but the headland views and beach access make it worthwhile if you have the time.
From the church in Valdepares, where the camino turns left to cross over the N-634, it is possible instead to turn right and follow a coastal path in the direction of the ‘Castro y Mirador de Cabo Blanco.’ This path is certainly the long way around to Porcía (4.1km), but it does follow the headlands (with beach) and the views are magnificent.
Tapia is on the camino for historical reasons, and modern arrows make it easy to follow. A medium-sized fishing town with a modest port and plenty of food options. The Iglesia de San Esteban, built in 1898, is almost brand-new by camino standards — and neo-Gothic.
The municipal albergue wins the prize for best views without a climb, but it's small. Arrive early.
From Tapia to Figueras there are a few walking options, including several coastal variations that are not officially the camino. If you follow close to the coast you won’t get lost and it is a beautiful walk. It cannot help but bring you to Figueras, which is the riverside border town of Asturias.
A hamlet on the northern coastal route between Tapia and Figueras. No services.
A hamlet on the southern inland route between the Porcía split and Figueras. No services.